Weissmies

Overview

Climbers approaching the summit of Weissmies by MammoetMenno

Weissmies has a prominence of 1186 meters (Mondellipass) and an isolation of 11km with the nearest higher neighbor being Lenzspitze (4294m), part of the Mischabel chain. The elevation of Weissmies used to be 4023 meters. Due to global warming, the elevation of the snowcapped summit has somewhat decreased to 4017 meters, which is at present time, the widely accepted altitude of Weissmies. Lots of older topographic maps and books still state 4023 meters as altitude though.

NW Face

East Face

South Face

Weissmies is located in the very eastern part of the Swiss Kanton Wallis, near the border with Italy. The mountain is part of the Weissmies Group and is also the highest mountain of the group, shortly followed by Lagginhorn (4010m), the only other 4000 meter peak in the group. The third main mountain in the Weissmies Group is Fletschhorn,with 3993m, falling just short of the magical 4000m barrier.

Directly north of Weissmies rises Lagginhorn, separated from Weissmies by the Lagginjoch(3499m). To the south of Weissmies is Pizzo d’Andolla/ Portjengrat (3654m), situated on the border with Italy and separated from Weissmies by the Zwischbergenpass (3268m). The Weissmies Group is 12 km long, 8 km wide and has a North-South orientation. It also is the easternmost mountain group of the Pennine Alps and Walliser kanton.

Triftgrat near the summit

Summit ridge

Summit ridge

To the east Weissmies is bordered by the Simplon Pass (2000m) and Gondo Valley, including the villages named Simplon (1472m) and Gondo (855m). To the west the mountain is bordered by the Saas Valley, including the villages Saas Balen (1483m), Saas Grund (1559m), Saas Fee (1803m) and Saas Almagell (1673m). The northeast side of Weissmies is covered by the Weissmies glacier, the southeast side by the Rottalglacier and the west side by the Trift- & Mellig glacier.

Weismies has several routes up to its summit. The route along the NW-flank of the mountain (over the Trift glacier) is considered the normal route up the mountain. This route is also the most climbed one: The vicinity of the Hohsaas cableway, which takes climbers up to  3100 meters and allows them to climb Weissmies in a single day, is one of the main reasons for it. The route is also often climbed by starting from the Weissmiesshütten (2724m) or the Hohsaas Bergrestaurant/Hütte (3200m). This route is graded PD. Another popular route is along the SE-ridge from the Almageller Hut (2894m). This route is also graded PD but involves much more rock Climbing (up to UIAA grade II) compared to the normal route, which is almost fully on glaciated terrain. A traverse combining both routes is also a popular objective for climbers. Other routes on the mountain are the SW-ridge, the North ridge  and the difficult East Face.

North Face

East Face

West Face

Weissmies offers tremendous views from its summit. It is the easternmost 4000 meter peak in the Walliser kanton and as result summit views in an eastern direction are near endless. The only other 4000 meter peak in that direction, Piz Bernina, is more than 100km away, so basically everything is lower in elevation when standing on top of Weissmies. To the north you can see Lagginhorn (4010m) and to the west the Mischabel chain with Taschhorn (4491m), Dom (4545m), Nadelhorn and co. and of course Saas Fee below in the valley. Towards the south you can see Allalinhorn (4027m), Strahlhorn (4190m), the Mattmark Reservoir and the sharp Pizzo d’Andolla / Portjengrat (3654m).

Routes

Climbers approaching the summit

There are several routes up to the summit of Weissmies. This section gives a short description of the main routes on Weissmies. All sections provide a link to the route pages on SP (when available). All difficulties are based on regular conditions (experienced mountaineer, good weather, no icy conditions!) as given in the guide. Note that when conditions are sub-optimal the difficulties can increase substantially.

I NW- Flank (Normal Route)

The route along the Northwest flank of Weissmies is considered the normal route on the mountain. The vicinity of the Hohsaas cableway allows climbers to climb Weissmies along this route in a single day. Taking the first lift up to Hohsaas and climbing the mountain in a day comes at a price though. There is a need to hurry up, especially in the summer months: in the afternoon the hard firn melts to become soft snow, and preferably climbers want to be back down from the glacier before that happens. Even so, this long day tour is immensely popular. In the summer months the route can get pretty crowded as a result. Many guides take up clients along this route from Hohsaas and back down on the same day. A preferable alternative is to spend the night in one of the mountain huts (Weissmies Hut or Hohsaas Hut) and make an early start.

II SE-ridge

The route along the SE-ridge is the nicest of the easier routes on Weissmies. It is also referred to as the old normal route.  It is less crowded compared to the normal route and offers a more diverse climb. The normal route goes fully over glaciated terrain, but the SE-ridge is for the larger part a climb on rock. The SE-ridge offers some fine rock climbing but is never really difficult. The larger part consists of climbing in the first grade (UIAA I to I+) with a couple of passages in grade two (UIAA II). After climbing the SE-ridge one has to cross over the foresummit of Weissmies to the main summit, this involves the crossing of a narrow snow ridge. This airy, but easy passage is probably the most photgraphed spot on the mountain. The routes overall gradation is PD (UIAA II).

III North Ridge

The North ridge on Weissmies is a classic route, but not an easy one. The route is graded AD+ and involves climbing up to the fourth grade (UIAA IV). As starting point for the route the Weissmies Hut is often used. It is also possible to start fom Hohsaas. From either one on the mountain huts the first destination is the Lagginjoch at almost 3500 meters. This pass separates Weissmies from Lagginhorn (4010m). At this point the North ridge is reached, which you follow al the way to the summit of Weissmies. The rock is of medium quality. Up to 3830 m there is generally no ice, but often snow. After a short descent you will reach a snow or ice ridge, that is narrow and demands the biggest concentration. Follow the snow ridge to the top. From the Weissmies hut the route takes about  6 to 7 hours.

IV SW-ridge

The route along the SW-ridge (also named Triftgrat) starts from the Almageller Hut just like the route on the SE-ridge. This route is much less frequently visited though, since most people ascend the SE-ridge when starting from the Almageller Hut. This route is also somewhat more difficult. The route is graded PD+ and involves climbing up to the third grade (UIAA III). Above 3800 meters on the SW-ridge the route joins with the normal route and goes over easy snow, further along the Triftgrat, to the summit of Weissmies.

V Other routes

Weissmies (4017m) from the summit of Lagginhorn (4010m)

- NE-couloir (TD)

Climbing History

Weissmies in the year 1900

A decade later the first successful climb on the eastern side of the mountain was made. On August 1, 1876 the Americans E.P.Jackson and J.A. Peebles,together with their guides Peter Schlegel, Ulrich Rubi and Jean Martin, made a successful ascent through Weissmiess’  dangerous (brittle rock, falling ice) East wall.

A memorable first ascent was made by Claude and Herbert Wilson together with their guides Aloys Burgener and Jospeh Furrer. On August 7, 1882 they reached the SW-ridge after climbing the 500 meter high south wall of Weissmies.

The north ridge was first climbed by Johan Peter Zurbriggen on August25, 1884 and last but not least, over a century later, the Germans Jurgen Straub and Hans Rothwangl climbed the “ViaAndrea”, a route through the 680 meter high NW-wall.

Getting there

Saas Grund

The starting point for most routes on Weissmies is the Saas valley. Starting point for the normal route and North ridge is Saas Grund. Also, from Saas Grund starts the Hohsaas cableway as well as the trails to the Weissmies Hut and Hohsaas Hut. The "next" village in the valley is Saas Almagel. From here a marked trail starts to the Almageller Hut, starting point for the routes along the SE- and SW-face.

When to climb

On the Summit with the Mischabel chain behind

Weissmies is climbed mostly during the summer months: July, August, September. Especially on the normal route, it can get quite busy during the summer months. The normal route is also climbed with skis during the winter season.

Red Tape

Weissmies South Face in summer

There is no red tape. No permits required, no closures.

Mountain Huts

Hut	Elevation	Telephone	SP-link	Photo
Weissmies Hütten	2726m	+49 27 957 25 54	Here
Almageller Hütte	2894m	+41 27 957 11 79	Here
Hohsaas Hütte	3101m	+41 78 789 07 87	/

Books

Maps

Type	Name	Scale	ISBN / EAN	Additional Info.
SchweizerLandeskarte	1329 Saas	1:25.000	9783302013299	Covers the entire area
Kummerley & Frey	24 Zermatt Saas Fee	1:60.000	9783259022245	Covers the entire area
Kompass Map	117 Zermatt Saas Fee	1:50.000	9783850269261	Covers the entire area

Campings & Hotels

Saas Fee

Camping

In the Saas valley there are 3 good options for camping. Camping Mischabel, Camping am Kapellenweg and camping Schonblick. All three are located in the vicinity of Saas Grund in the Saas valley.

Hotels

Saas Fee

Saas Grund

External Links

Weissmies summit ridge

Weissmies at www.4000er.de Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

Weissmies at Camptocamp Description of all major routes on Allalinhorn; Partly in English, mostly French

Mountain Guides for Climbing Weissmies: Saas Fee Guides in Saas Fee, Active Dreams Weissmies in Saas Grund.

Webcam Weissmies by Bergfex

Webcam Hohsaas by Bergfex  (from Langfluh)

Weather Forecast by mountain-forecast.com

Weather

Weissmies Panorama

Panorama from the normal route on Lagginhorn  towards Weissmies (left) and the Mischabel Chain (4545m)

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