West Ear Summit Route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 43.00860°N / 122.44°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.4 - 5.5
Sign the Climber's Log


From the pullout stay right of the West ear. Follow trail and easy rock scrambling to saddle between ears. The climb starts up this gully.

Route Description

Climb the gully between the West ear on the right and a prominant spire on the left. Once at the saddle you can take 3 routes to the summit. I climbed the south route which follows a shallow crack/gully system to just below the summit. Scramble over easy climbing to the summit.

From the summit scramble to the South ridge and look for rappel rings to start your descent. Bring several triple runners since it takes 3 full length two 60 meter rope rappels to get to the base of the ear. There is ample opportunity to sling boulders and horns for rappel stations.

Essential Gear

You will need several triple runners for rapping. Also two sixty meter ropes. It is much faster to rappel than downclimb.

Miscellaneous Info

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