West Face

Page Type
Idaho, United States, North America
Route Type:
technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
A long day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
West Face
Created On: Jan 4, 2006
Last Edited On: Jan 4, 2006


The Arrowhead is located about 14 miles south-southwest of Stanley, Idaho. The peak sits on the main Sawtooth Crest in the central section of the Sawtooths.

Road Approach

From Stanley, Idaho take ID-75 south for 12 miles, turn west at Decker Flat, cross the Salmon River and then drive 5 miles on one of the worst 4 wheel drive roads in Idaho. High clearance is required and large boulders need to be negotiated at times. 

Hike / Scramble Approach

From the trailhead cross Hell Roaring Creek (can be difficult crossing in high water), and hike a relatively flat trail for 1.7 miles until you reach Hell Roaring Lake (Elevation 7407). The main trail goes left here and out toward Imogene Lake. You'll take a climber's trail on the right hand side (north) of the lake until you reach a stream inlet at which the hiking steepens. At mile 3 (from the trailhead), you'll reach a gorgeous unnamed lake at 8179 feet. This destination makes a great bivy spot if needed. From here, follow the drainage that runs SE of the Finger of Fate. You'll stay left (south of this gulley) following a string of spectacular tarn lakes at 9465, 9700, and 9800 feet. The Arrowhead formation should be striking and obvious at this point. You'll aim for the north side of the Arrowhead (left) on the ridge crest, where there's a way over from the east side to the west side.  Drop down 50 feet onto the west side and start the climb.

Route Description

One long pitch or 2 pitches to avoid rope drag

1) Climb 5.7 up to a small ledge
2) Traverse 15 feet left (north) across a smooth 5.8 face.
3) Climb up a right facing book with a hand crack jam up and over a slight overhang (5.9)
4) From the top of the crack find a large rock fin, then climb 5.5 out onto the summit fin

Summit register has only a handful of signatures.

Rappel from pins or webbing near upper fin

Essential Gear

1) One rope (or two for longer rappel)
2) One set of nuts 
3) One set of double length runners
4) One set of TCUs- most all the small ones

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.