Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.66996°N / 107.56027°W |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A few days |
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Rock Difficulty:
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Class 3 |
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Route Description
At, or just below, the Peak 8/Peak 9 saddle count three gullies to the right. The first on the left will be a prominent gully coming from a minor saddle. The second will at first appear to go, but will hit steeper terrain farther up. Just to the right, the third is smaller still. Descend slightly from the Peak 8/Peak 9 saddle (about 12,950’) and traverse 100-200’ towards Peak Nine across a field of talus to the base of the gully.
This third gully (also at about 12,950’) will climb slightly right for about 60’ (Class 3+), look left and climb slightly left and then up and right for a total of another 100’ (Class 3+) to ~13,100’.
As you look up and right there will be a long expanse of loose terrain, but little immediate exposure. Angle up and right at about a 40 degree angle for 400’ laterally and 230’ vertically. This is all Class 2+ and the immediate exposure is, again, negligible, but the consequences of a major slip could be severe.
At this point you’ll come around a slight corner/ridge. Just past the corner the summit is almost directly above you. However, don’t be tempted to try to go straight for it. I tried three different spots and was turned back by steep, fragile rock on Class 4-5 terrain every time. Continue angling up at a slight angle to just below a small notch in the ridge. Climb 15’ of Class 3+ terrain (in my opinion the crux) to the ridge. Turn left and follow the ridge to the summit.
Note: As indicated on the route photo, there are other possibilities on the West Face. The route described is simply the first option that I saw. The alternative route farthest to the right may be what was previously considered to be the "standard route" for Peak Nine.