Tried to make it but was following a map that had the wrong notch labeled, so we ended way far from McMillan. Here's a correct map: https://caltopo.com/m/NVVF
Snow was pretty icy in the mornings, crampons were nice.
Beckey mentions a 5.6-5.7 route, but I found that the obvious grassy crack/ledge went at no harder than 5.0 with one very exposed move, and saved a lot of downclimbing and traversing when coming from East McMillan. Part of a long day of Picketing (15h45 car-to-car), also featuring East McMillan Spire, Pyramid, Degenhardt, and Terror. Trip report.
Terror Basin camp stormy but cleared for a quick summit and views.
We approached Terror Basin on the hottest day of the year. John Roper was there to greet us as he returned to camp. The climb was technically easy and the smooth bedrock was greatly appreciated. The view from the summit is breathtaking!
Date +/- 1 week. Very physically grueling climb. Total of just over 10,000 vertical ft gain in 2 days (a bit more than Rainier from Paradise). Trail is very steep, but Mt. Baring climber's trail on the scramble route is steeper!
Descent to Terror Basin camp was steep snow (short 50 degree pitch) rather than scree. Scramble is beautiful and quite straightforward. The position on that ridge is unbelievable. Easily one of the most beautiful places I've seen. Got lucky and had a sea of clouds down below on summit day.
Date is a guess. The "easy" Picket, well worth the brutal elevation gain.
But be warned, this is a gateway drug to an addiction for the Pickets, after seeing all those fangs of rock, you'll come back and go deeper, wanting more and stronger doses, and find yourself willing to pay the pusher any price.
Weather initially iffy, but all came together on summit day.