West McMillan Spire Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-7 of 7

andrewbares - May 30, 2018 6:49 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2018

Attempt, took the wrong notch

Tried to make it but was following a map that had the wrong notch labeled, so we ended way far from McMillan. Here's a correct map: https://caltopo.com/m/NVVF

Snow was pretty icy in the mornings, crampons were nice.


seano - Jul 28, 2014 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2014

Southeast face  Sucess!

Beckey mentions a 5.6-5.7 route, but I found that the obvious grassy crack/ledge went at no harder than 5.0 with one very exposed move, and saved a lot of downclimbing and traversing when coming from East McMillan. Part of a long day of Picketing (15h45 car-to-car), also featuring East McMillan Spire, Pyramid, Degenhardt, and Terror. Trip report.


nickmech - Apr 8, 2014 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009

West Ridge  Sucess!

Terror Basin camp stormy but cleared for a quick summit and views.


YEM - Jun 26, 2013 2:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009

West Ridge

We approached Terror Basin on the hottest day of the year. John Roper was there to greet us as he returned to camp. The climb was technically easy and the smooth bedrock was greatly appreciated. The view from the summit is breathtaking!


RomaK - Feb 27, 2013 8:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012

West ridge  Sucess!

Date +/- 1 week. Very physically grueling climb. Total of just over 10,000 vertical ft gain in 2 days (a bit more than Rainier from Paradise). Trail is very steep, but Mt. Baring climber's trail on the scramble route is steeper!

Descent to Terror Basin camp was steep snow (short 50 degree pitch) rather than scree. Scramble is beautiful and quite straightforward. The position on that ridge is unbelievable. Easily one of the most beautiful places I've seen. Got lucky and had a sea of clouds down below on summit day.


relic - Feb 23, 2013 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2001

Standard scramble route.  Sucess!

Date is a guess. The "easy" Picket, well worth the brutal elevation gain.

But be warned, this is a gateway drug to an addiction for the Pickets, after seeing all those fangs of rock, you'll come back and go deeper, wanting more and stronger doses, and find yourself willing to pay the pusher any price.


Norman - Nov 25, 2012 10:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009

West Ridge  Sucess!

Weather initially iffy, but all came together on summit day.

Viewing: 1-7 of 7
Return to 'West McMillan Spire' main page