Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
50.13300°N / 122.793°W |
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering |
Season:
|
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
|
Time Required:
|
One to two days |
|
Rock Difficulty:
|
Class 3 |
|
Difficulty:
|
AI 1 - 2 |
|
Grade:
|
II |
|
Overview
The West Ridge Couloir on Wedge is a very distinct white slash from Highway 99 near Whistler and allows for a climb of the highest mountain in Garibaldi Provincial Park with very little crevasse danger. This couloir is a common ski destination in early summer, but makes for a very enjoyable and fairly easy steep snow and ice climb after July.Getting There
Follow the directions on the main page to Wedgemount Lake where a hut provides comfortable accomodations for those spending the night. From the lake ascend the snout of the glacier and walk south to the col between Wedge and Parkhurst. Descend loose rock and/or snow to the bottom of the couloir from the col.Route Description
The couloir is almost 50 meters wide and rises directly to the summit ridge offering very straightforward climbing. The couloir averages some 45 degrees from top to bottom with the steepest section usually being some 20 meters of near-vertical snow or ice at the top depending on exactly where along its width one exits the couloir. Before August this couloir is a step-kicking affair and usually after August becomes a front-pointing one. From the top of the couloir follow the loose rock of the summit ridge about a half a kilomter to the summit itself.One can fairly quickly descend the couloir with care if it is somewhat soft, or walk down the broad slope of loose rock that comprises the southwest side of Wedge back to the base of the couloir.