Approach
For the approach to this route, use
Approach 1 or
Approach 2A on the
Main Page. From 7,882-ft Sheep Lake it will be necessary to boulder hop and talus and scree slide 1,000 ft up to the 8,840+ ft saddle between He Devil and She Devil. There are no issues except the state of the blisters on your feet.
Route Description
The direct ridge is not really feasible due to one too many little gendarmes. Instead, find one of a series of moderate gullies on the south side of the ridge.
Near the top the gullies more or less blend in with the rocks around the summit, at which point simply scramble up the path of least resistance.
Time = 2.0-2.5 hours from Sheep Lake (1,600 ft of gain) and less than one hour from the saddle.
Essential Gear
No special equipment necessary.
Helmets are not necessary--especially if you and your partners stick together in the loose gullies. There is more than enough talus in there. Some of it would love to hitch a ride imbedded in your skull.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.