West Ridge

Page Type
British Columbia, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day
II 5.5
Rock Difficulty:
5.5 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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West Ridge
Created On: Sep 16, 2006
Last Edited On: Sep 16, 2006


This route is the standard one on Rexford and is approached from the west. This pleasant scramble is a popular one.

Getting There

From the Nesakwatch Creek trailhead, follow the very steep climbers path up the hill for approximately 4 hours to reach the high alpine basin below the west face of the spire. The trail gains over a thousand meters in only 3 kilometers of travel and is relentless.

From the boulderfield below the west side of the spires, scramble south to access the base of Rexford's sweeping West Ridge. The climb can be started from the base or from an access couloir about half way up. The access couloir is very loose, steep, and usually clogged with snow, so it is not recommended.

Route Description

Scramble directly up the West Ridge passing any difficulties on either side on terrain that varies from class 2 - 4. When below the steep west summit tower on Rexford, traverse over to the north side of the tower on a series of ledge systems. On the north side climb 2 pitches up a chimney system to access the west summit tower. Protection is good, mostly 4th class, some 5.5. To get to the true (east) summit of Rexford traverse the shattered ridgecrest on its rightside then climb the short 5.6 chimney then scramble to the top.

Descend the same route using 2 30 meter rappels to get down the steep section.

Essential Gear

Light Rack to 2"
Ice axe and crampons in early season

External Links

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West Ridge

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