ychampollion - Aug 21, 2022 9:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2022
Nice way to go up and down
Detailed update that hopefully clarifies things...
We went up and down the W ridge of S Teton. The route needs a bit of routefinding skills but it is well marked with cairns now. From the Avalanche divide, follow the obvious grassy/rubly W ridge to the cliffs of the W ridge. A climbers trail will take you all the way to a notch near the snow patch on the N slope w/o much difficulty (mostly Class 2 and 3 scrambling, maybe 1-2 steps of Class 4, but never exposed). The rock is also not as loose as described if you're careful picking your steps except in the main of the gullies.
Follow the climbers trail that angles to the right first (going East). It soons meets a first broad gully in the SW face that is only partially climbed up, always angling up to the right (NE) until a second broad gully is met. Climb this second gully to its top, exiting through a slab and corner to its notch on the climbers right (Class 4) at about 3650m on the flat shoulder of the W ridge at the top of the N slope. Then follow the normal ascent to route to the NW couloir. The snow patch was pretty small when we went and could easily be bypassed above it.
jamesmc2 - Aug 24, 2019 9:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2019
Teton traverse
Climbed in a big day as part of a Cloudveil Traverse Variation
Middle Teton
South Teton
Ice Cream Cone (5.6)
Gilkey Tower (5.6 var)
Spaulding Peak
Cloudveil Dome
ychampollion - Aug 21, 2022 9:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2022
Nice way to go up and downDetailed update that hopefully clarifies things...
We went up and down the W ridge of S Teton. The route needs a bit of routefinding skills but it is well marked with cairns now. From the Avalanche divide, follow the obvious grassy/rubly W ridge to the cliffs of the W ridge. A climbers trail will take you all the way to a notch near the snow patch on the N slope w/o much difficulty (mostly Class 2 and 3 scrambling, maybe 1-2 steps of Class 4, but never exposed). The rock is also not as loose as described if you're careful picking your steps except in the main of the gullies.
Follow the climbers trail that angles to the right first (going East). It soons meets a first broad gully in the SW face that is only partially climbed up, always angling up to the right (NE) until a second broad gully is met. Climb this second gully to its top, exiting through a slab and corner to its notch on the climbers right (Class 4) at about 3650m on the flat shoulder of the W ridge at the top of the N slope. Then follow the normal ascent to route to the NW couloir. The snow patch was pretty small when we went and could easily be bypassed above it.
jamesmc2 - Aug 24, 2019 9:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2019
Teton traverseClimbed in a big day as part of a Cloudveil Traverse Variation
Middle Teton
South Teton
Ice Cream Cone (5.6)
Gilkey Tower (5.6 var)
Spaulding Peak
Cloudveil Dome
dfrancom - Jul 26, 2009 4:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009
EasyNice and relaxing. Enjoyed the view of the Middle and Grand Teton.
chugach mtn boy - Dec 2, 2007 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 1979
DescentAs a descent route to get back to a campsite at Snowdrift Lake, I found this side of the South T to be pretty rotten and unpleasant for the Tetons.