Wildspitze Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 64

il.rocciatore - May 2, 2024 12:56 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route from Mittelbergjoch Date Climbed: april 2024  Sucess!

About 50 people attempting the summit on a Monday morning outside holidays...didn't expect that. Eventually it didn't bother too much, the mountain is big enough ;-)

Smooth climb. Absolutely awesome descent over the Taschachferner (about 2,000m vertical descent). Great conditions. Last part through the valley near the Taschachbach is rather flat and you have to push to keep gliding, but it's worth it after a great descent.

jdegroot - Sep 8, 2023 2:05 pm

North ridge succesful

Rofenkarferner was completely ice, made it quite uncomfortable on the upper part of the glacier. Don't crampon up on the left side of the upper part of the glacier cause there's continuously stones falling down in hot conditions. Leave the part of the glacier about midway to go right to the rocky ridge. A good eye will spot the marks where most people went. Go up too high and you'll be left in uncomfortable loose rock area (or climb the steeper ice if you're into that).
North ridge we were lucky with 10 up to 30cm of snow, made it very stable and not hard.

Note: Climbing Wildspitze from Otztaler Urkund is very dangerous nowadays, no one does it anymore the guides say and Breslauerhütte says.


missihawk - Dec 28, 2022 5:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2022

Normal from Vernagt  Sucess!

During a mountaineering course.
Very nice weather conditions, the snow was wet on the way down and a lot of ice on the Vernagtferner.


MikeLJ - Apr 2, 2018 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1986

Ordinary route  Sucess!

Climbed as part of an Alpine Mountaineering course with the Austrian Alpine Association


jck - Oct 18, 2017 5:54 am Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2017

Traverse  Sucess!

Did the traverse from Breslauer Hutte: via Mitterkarjoch to South summit, then to the North Summit and along Mitterkarferner back to Breslauer hutte. Good trail on the way up, dozen of people, trailbreaking in knee-deep snow on the descent. Fantastic day, perfect weather.


bserk - Jul 17, 2017 3:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015

Great Novice to Intermediate Peak

Loved the climb after the advanced mountaineering course of the German Alpine Club. The Taschachhaus has really nice breakfast and even better dinner. Free tee in the morning and a good Brotzeit on the go.

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - Mar 17, 2017 2:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2016

Wildspitze  Sucess!

Climbed via Breslauer Hütte. A great mountain.


NatureGirl - Nov 26, 2016 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2014

day tour via Mitterkar  Sucess!

wonderful conditions, great group, challenging day tour, perfect weather.


Ivona - Nov 9, 2015 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2015

Breslauer Hutte - Mitterkarjoch   Sucess!

Interesting route. Wonderful weather and views!


SimonPL - Oct 12, 2014 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2014

From Breslauerhuette  Sucess!

Fantastic trip to Wildspitze via Mitterkarjoch. I was in second group on the top.


Kimmuriel - Jul 27, 2014 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2014

Wildspitze  Sucess!

Very ideal weather, a great sunny day. We've set up our tents at the glacier lake.
Glacier lake near Breslauer Hutte - couloir - Wildspitze
Wildspitze - Mitterkarjoch - glacier lake

PaulK - Jul 23, 2014 4:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2014

Route: Up via Oetztaler Urkund, down via Rofenkarferner  Sucess!

Went up with guide from Breslauer hutte via Urkundholm (3150), Oetztaler Urkund (3450), then traverse to Wildspitze East wall, up a couloir, and then rock/snow to summit (4.5 hrs). Class II-III. Lots of snow. Some very exposed sections. We were the only ones on this not so common route. Down via one of the common routes: North Summit, to Taschenferner, then via Point 3550 to Rofenkarferner (3.5 hrs).


fubar7500 - May 3, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: May 2, 2014

Snowshoe trip from Breslauer Hutte  Sucess!

Breslauer Hutte - Mitterkarjoch - Wildspitze.
Cloudy and foggy day, but with mild wind. Switching for crampons in Mitterkarjoch couloir.


rgg - Apr 4, 2013 5:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012

North-south traverse  Sucess!

Back in 2004, the Wildspitze was my first glacier climb, then from the Vernagthütte and back.

This time we climbed the North wall and descended the normal route back to the Breslauerhütte, and further down to Vent.


telemarkdude - Oct 9, 2012 2:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 1988

Northwest Ridge from Braunschweiger Huette  Sucess!

Climbed the Northwest ridge of the Wildspitze. Beautiful climb. Descended the standard route.


Gijsj - Sep 27, 2012 6:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

From Venagthütte  Sucess!

We took the route from Vernagthütte via the kleiner Vernagtferner and the Brochkogeljoch 3423m. Further over the Taschachferner and the normal route to the southern top. There was about 30cm of fresh snow on the glaciers which made some crevasses invisible. The weather was extremely good, sunny and very bright air giving a superb panoramic view on almost the whole Eastern Alps. A better view was not possible according local mountain guides because we could see the Piz Tödi of 3614m in the Glarus Alps (Switzerland), which is a view of 148km/92miles. Our Austrian guides told me that in recent years the chance on this kind of excellent weather is greater in september than in july/august, mainly because of the colder nights in september. Descend route was the same as ascend, we used crampons because of the fresh snow until we reached the glacier. Long but easy tour.


Charles - Nov 7, 2011 8:07 am

Nice day

The ordinary route from the vernagtütte and down to the Braslauerhütte. Nice day out with a snow storm on the top

nlafevers - Sep 15, 2011 10:52 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011

From Rofen  Sucess!

I parked at the lot in the tiny village of Rofen (2014 m) and started hiking at 2:15 a.m. with the temperature at 39 degrees F. Following the trail, I reached the Vernagthutte (2755 m) at 4:45 a.m., where the temperature was 31 degrees F. I reached the south summit (3770 m) at 9:45 a.m. with a temperature of 16 degrees F not considering chill from roughly 20 mph wind. Along the route above 2800 meters the wind stayed moderate and steady out of the north. Below about 2300 meters there was little snow left, and above that it was all neve, but with avalanche danger rising to moderate in the afternoon on steep slopes. I returned to Rofen at 1:00 p.m. and by then the temperature down there had risen to 62 degrees F.


rgg - Nov 9, 2010 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2004

Normal route  Sucess!

From the Vernagthütte and back.


Lodewijk - Oct 22, 2010 4:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2010

Traverse Route  Sucess!

We did the Traverse Route:
Breslauer Hut - Mitterkarjoch - Wildspitze South Summit - Wildspitze North Summit - Rofenkarferner - Breslauer Hut

First to summit that day, we had to summit early because the weather predictions were very bad! At the summit a little cloudy but still great views. Later that day while descending back to Vent from Breslauer Hut a big Thunderstorm broke out. So we were glad we were already almost down in the valley.

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