Window Route

Page Type
Utah, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
II+ 5.9 C1 or 5.11
Rock Difficulty:
5.11 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Window Route
Created On: Nov 30, 2006
Last Edited On: Dec 11, 2008


Window RouteWindow Route

This Bjornstad classic ascends Echo Pinnacle in three fun pitches - in fact, upper two of these are outstanding (esp. pitch 3 which is very unique)! Though originally the first pitch climbed (on aid) up the east side of the tower (and then tunneled through the 8 foot window to the west), the modern version of the route resides entirely on the west face of the tower (near north side of west face) and is often referred to as Free Window Route. Done all free, the line is 5.11. Many do it by freeing the first two pitches (lower half of P2 for us) and aiding the bolt ladder on pitch 3. The rating can be as easy as 5.8 or 5.9 (depending on guidebook) C1.

Getting There

Window RoutePitch 1
Window RoutePitch 2

Follow approach directions on main Echo Pinnacle page. Stay on established roads! There are more than enough to choose from. Line is on opposite side (west) to the approach face (east).

Route Description

Window RoutePitch 2
Window RoutePitch 1
Window RoutePitch 3
Window RoutePitch 2

Ratings ranges below correspond to discrepancies in various guidebooks.

Pitch 1: 5.8-5.9, 100 feet. Starting on the west face near the north edge, climb up intermittent crack systems directly below the window/obvious dihedral above. Crubmly rock but good pro. Belay on the huge ledge in the window.

Pitch 2: 5.10+ - 5.11-, or C1, 60 feet. Start up the large hand crack in dihedral which is overhanging in the beginning. The crack starts to close up to thin hands (crux) on upper half/third of route. Belay (hanging) from fixed pins + cams at the base of the obvious opening (15 feet below start of bolt ladder).

Pitch 3: 5.11 or 5.8 A0. Chimney up 12 feet to the first peg of the ladder. AWSOME position - you're in a weird chimney formed by two towers separated by inches. Follow bolt ladder to top. Some bolts missing so you'll need to make some free moves or bring a hook. Belay on flat terrace below the summit (many bolts).

Pitch 4: 4th class. Scramble to the highpoint of the formation & downclimb.

Descent: Rap down the west side from established anchors. Two 70 meter ropes get you down in one shot. Otherwise, there's an obvious intermediate station in the middle of west face.

Essential Gear

Window Route

Double set of cams from ~0.3 inch to #3 Camalot. #3.5 and #4 are nice. Extras in #1 to #2. Nuts or rivet hangers.

External Links

See main page.