Yamnuska Traverse

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Oct 1, 2004
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Stacy participated in this scramble with me, but unilaterally retired
BJ from scrambling, news he and I both took hard. So he
remained in the truck.

Park at a trail head on the north side of 1A, 2 km east of the
junction of 1A and 1X north of Seebe. Follow the trail up the
mountain in a westerly direction, bypassing the 1st marked junction.
Take a right at the 2nd unmarked junction. You are aiming for the
east shoulder pass of Yam. At approximately 7000' you will top
out and descend via the trail to circumvent the disintegrating buttress
and proceed west on the north side of Yam following a trail that
eventually ascends again aiming west for a small water worn notch
in a rock band. From a distance this looks more challenging then it
really is. Scramble up this break and continue west on the north
side taking in the view from time to time up on the ridge. Continue
west until you reach the crux which is aided by a new cable assisting
you across horizontal ledges to a notch in the ridge. Then comes a
great challenge for scramblers without anxious spouses. I would
free climb the steep wall that immediately follows the cable crossing.
However, the scramble route is to descend (unnatural for any
climber) the gully on your right, clinging to solid rock on your left
until you feel comfortable ascending again and continue your plod
westward for the summit cairn. It took Stacy and I 2.5 hrs to the
summit from the parking lot.

There is a summit register and plenty of space to lay out and enjoy
the weather if it is suitable. The descent is uneventful down the west
side and return to the south facing climbing routes, following the
scree below Yam until you find the escalator scree in the middle that
descends back to an official trail


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