On the south ridge before the highest point
For lovers of exposed ridge traverses the south ridge of Zehnerkopf / Cima Dieci is a very interesting route. Though rather short - in all the ridge is only several hundred metres long - it is very challenging and alsorather exposed. The route is ooften climbed in conjunction with the climb of Elferspitz and the following traverse towards Zehnerkopf.
The ridge consists of big grannite (?) blocks across which you have to scramble. While comparatively easy in its southern part the central and northern parts require quite some climbing and route finding experience. Sometimes the best path goes right across the cenntre of the ridge while more often than not you need to pass one of the obstacles on one of its sides. It is here that the exposure is most demanding during the climb.
Zwischen die Köpf'
The main page describes the itinerary for the Schöneben ski runs, where the climb starts. You need to cross the runs towards the base of the mountain where both the normal route as well as the south face route trailhead can be found.
- Start altitude: 2087m
- Summit altitude: 2675m
- Prevailing exposure: E and W
- Type: Hike and UIAA II Scramble
- Protection: None
Power: 1 - Easy
Psyche: 4 - Very exposed
Difficulty: 4 - UIAA II
Orientation: 1 - Easy
From the top station of the Schöneben lift follow the sign to Zehnerkopf. The route follows the maintenance road across the ski runs until it reaches the north face of the mountain. Here a steep scramble leads into a notch between Zehnerkopf and Grubenkopf (eastern neighbour), where the normal route turns off to the left and leads through a scree filled couloir to the top. Our route hads through the notch, staying on the Grubenkopf side, going parallel to the Zehnerkopf south ridge. It heads for a saddle , then descends to the entry of the south ridge climb. A sign "Nur für Geübte / Solo par Esperti" leads the way to the south ridge.
The first part is a steep but easy climb to the top of the ridge, which at this southern end is still rather wide. It narrows to some 5m before getting wider again. After some 200m boths sides drop away and reveal the south ridge proper. At first you descend into a small saddle staying on the top of the ridge. A few obstacles have to be passed and you rech the next highpoint. Here the first difficulty arises when descending into the next notch.
Staying on top is possible but passing a big block on the eastern side appeared safer to us. The next ascending section can be climbed on either side of the ridge - and you reach the highest point which is marked by a lopsided pole. From here a long descend takes you to the next saddle, where a gendarme bars the way. Pass it to the east and the most difficult part is over. The final steps lead across a scree covered slope towards the real summit, where the normal route joins. The summit cross is located a bit to the north-east of the main summit.
Essential GearWe climbed the ridge with hiking gear only but roping up shoud be a good idea.