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A Hot Scramble in the Teanaway
Zephyr from NwHikers.net and I decided to try to do multiple summit trip in the Teanaway Region on Saturday. We got a late start due to my second job needing me to work late and got to the Beverly Creek trailhead around 11 am. Our first destination was Teanaway (Genes) Peak. I wanted to do this to continue the momentum I have had with scrambling from McClellan Butte. We started out making good time heading up to Teanaway (Genes) Peak but it was rather hot in the Teanaway and so we had to take frequent water breaks to proven ourselves from getting dehydrated. This to me was the first really warm hike of the year and it was quiet a shock to the system.
Both of us were able to adjust to the warm temperatures and take our time getting to the peak. The trail all the way up was in good condition and we had good views going up of Bill's Peak, Iron Peak and Teanaway Peak. There were also many flowers in bloom including Indian Paintbrush and lupines.
Once we hit the saddle between Bill's and Teanaway we went for Teanaway up from the saddle. The first part up was nothing more that partially forested Class 2 up to near the gully. Once we got to the gully (which is actually a good scree climbing route but during this time it is a scree fest) we had to make a couple short but exposed Class 3 moves to the saddle between the gully and the northern dropoff area. The lose stuff on the somewhat poor rock made this narrow saddle quiet interesting. But once after crossing the saddle and the crux the rest of the trip up was basically Class 2. It should be noted though that most of the stuff on this mountain was of poorer quality rock, some which felt as if it could break in your hand. Also there was often scree and some kitty litter on some of rocks, making some of the footholds less than stable.
We managed well though thanks to Zephyr great routefinding skills. It seemed like we always managed to find the easiest way up the mountain and outside that one pitch it was good summit. When we both made the summit we were stunned by the views. This peak has the best Stuart closeup I have seen from the Teanaway Region. You could also see North and South Ingalls (North Ingalls is one of my ultimate goal destinations) as well as Daniel, Glacier Peak, and last but very far from least ,Tahoma. The only problem was that the summit did not have many good places to sit and the lose mini scree on the summit made the summit slightly unnerving so we headed lower to get a quick snack .
Once down there we realized that we were both low on water (both of us brought 3 liters and were well hydrated before the trip). We were also running too low on time to attempt a second peak because I had to be back at my work that night. So right there we called it good.
After the break we headed back into the crux. Looking down the SE gully I couldn't help but to think that the gully would be a pretty good glissade in winter. But for now it looked like a very steep screefest and we had no interest in that gully. A couple of short Class 3 moves to go through the col and we were on our way down to the saddle. Once back at the saddle we decided to head back down the trail back to the car.
I wanted to thank Zephyr for coming out today, being willing to drive (I was tired from work), helping with the scramble route and being great company on the trip. It was an awesome trip on a very beautiful mountain.
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