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mtnman455Via French Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007

mtnman455

Climbed with T. Haines. First 2.5 pitches after bergshrund were good snow then it turned into ice at flutings. First pitch of ice was short and about 75* at most and not very great ice, but not bad. Seven pitches on ice total. Last six pitches had amazing, very plastic ice. Last pitch had a short section of 80*-85* ice for 20´ then the second half of the pitch was steep snow that tools didn´t really hold on, but a little balance gets you to the top. Amazing mountain. Amazing route. Ferrari was closed due to a huge cornice on the summit ridge. Pictures and TR will be added soon.
Posted Jul 30, 2007 5:08 pm

alexclimbRoute Climbed: Ferrari
Date Climbed: May 28, 2007

alexclimb

Climbed almost to the snow mushroom and found the passage to the summit ridge closed.. Upper part of the route was not in very good condition for belaying.
Posted Jul 18, 2007 2:01 pm

ripper333french direct
.. 2 day trek to base camp.. next day to high camp.. up around 3am ...incredible route .. weather was crap... thanks edgar
Posted Jun 16, 2007 1:20 am

highiceferrari  Sucess!
left early for another try. first try on day before there were climbers above us and felt this to be unsafe. glad we backed off...a guy broke his shoulder from falling ice from a team above him. The team that dislodged the ice actually aborted their chance for the summit in order to help the team of the injured climber to get him down before dark.
Posted Jan 30, 2007 8:51 pm

chrisferroFerrari Route, 2000  Sucess!

chrisferro

Connie Martinez and I summited in June of 2000, during an 11 day mini-expedition in to Alpamayo. We hired an arriero at Cashapampa with 2 mules, and took 2 days to hike in to basecamp at about 14,000 feet. Then we did a carry up to 16,000 on day 4, then moved up on day 5. Day 6 we got on the snow and carried everything up to the high camp at 17,800. That was a pretty difficult 8 hours or so. I remember the terrain was in some cases steeper than anything we encountered on the actual route to the summit. Day 7 we rested, and then the next day we summitted behind a party of 3 Spaniards who were knocking a little ice down on us all day (and one of them lost a headlamp, which must have hit us on it's way down). The route itself was no problem, about 6 pitches of easy ice from the bergshrund (which was a little tricky to cross) to the top. We didn't place much pro at all, just clipped fixed gear. The day after, we took another rest day, then went all the way down to basecamp. On Day 11 our arriero showed up and we went back to Cashapampa and Huaraz. Beautiful mountain...
Posted Jan 8, 2007 7:24 pm

Tom FralichBasque-French  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006

Tom Fralich

Summited with Adam Jones (SP member flatnose) in a total white-out after waiting for 4 days at Col Camp for a partial clearing in the weather. The route was almost entirely water ice, which we climbed in 6 pitches. We then continued along the ridge to the true summit. The hardest part was getting to the face, breaking trail through all the deep snow that accumulated while we waited in Col Camp. Definitely a great climb on a great mountain, even with no views from the summit.
Posted Aug 2, 2006 6:25 pm

ElCapitanKoolAidNot crowded  Sucess!

ElCapitanKoolAid

The crowds were not part of Alpamayo at that time yet. I climbed it with a guy that I met in Huaraz.
Posted May 22, 2006 3:58 am

tetontomFerrari  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1998

tetontom

Still to this day my favorite alpine-ice route! We were lucky to climb on a day with NO other parties on the route. Could be quite hazardous with groups above. Quick descent, all on fixed abseil points. I'd like to give the N Ridge a try someday.
Posted Apr 19, 2006 2:49 am

snocatS/W Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1998

snocat

Beautiful climb!
Posted Apr 14, 2006 4:46 pm

kabernicolaRoute Climbed: Hispano-Chilena Date Climbed: July 1998  Sucess!

kabernicola

First ascent of this route that goes by the right hand gully of the french one. 16 hours, camp to camp. Dificulty 80º, m4. Descent by the italian Route.

Posted Jan 25, 2006 7:08 am

AndinistaRoute Climbed: Vasco Francesa Date Climbed: 20 July 2003  Sucess!

Andinista

Ufff... Wonderful hill and also hard route..., specially if it is not called on to puntear. For that they are down, in the relief, the caidas ones of pieces of ice can return the dangerous and disagreeable ascent. The summit is very thin and costs to move from a side to another one, better to seat and to enjoy the Vista.
Posted Mar 11, 2005 2:08 pm

rischRoute Climbed: Ferrariroute in the southeast- face Date Climbed: 15.July 2003

risch

We had wonderful weather and were alone at the mountain- this is not normal at Alpamayo!
Posted Jan 11, 2004 2:54 am

hashRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: August 18, 2003

hash

After an aborted first attempt, during which we encountered the frozen corpse of an Israeli killed in the July avalanche that whacked 8, Page Kyle and I hiked back up for the French Direct, but at 2am, freezing cold, we found only an impenetrable 30 foot overhangin bergschrund with a powder lip. We traversed to the Ferrari on easy ground, but then encountered 25 feet of grade 5 ice, and then emerged into the main runnel, which had been raked at least a few times by big cornice avalanches during the 2003 season, one of which killed the aforementioned Israeli. What was left of the route was WI4, brittle, and not a little ugly. I broke a pick, and the gargoyles above were snarling, but we kept going until about 3 meters from the summit, where our heads hit the overhanging mushroom. The past 2 pitches had been enjoyable aero ice and styro-snow. Fearing the loss of hours to gain only a few vertical meters, we rapped before the whole damned summit fell down. The fixed gear is mashed, but still bombproof. This route is very dangerous now, and Peruvian guides have abandoned it. I suggest a rating of TD or so, mainly because of the intense hazard of icefall.



-Barry Hashimoto, Huaraz, Peru
Posted Aug 28, 2003 5:47 pm

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 2nd. 1999  Sucess!

TodoVertical

We did not have a nice view from the summit that day. Alhough the route was in perfect conditions. The nice part of this owercrowded mountain is that all belays stations where fixed, so we all went down quickly.
Posted Dec 4, 2002 1:29 pm

maxRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!
It was a very long day (Col - summit - col - BC) and unfortunately the sight on top was not much above Zero.
Posted May 13, 2002 1:06 pm

thomas.schmeidlRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!

thomas.schmeidl

We summitted in perfect weather and route conditions after a sleepless night due to a storm on the col.
Posted Apr 2, 2002 4:47 am

sgudmannRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: 09.06.00  Sucess!
Had the fantastic view only for a few minutes, then it was clouded. But the feeling was great anyway.
Posted Jan 15, 2002 10:33 am

UlrichPrinzRoute Climbed: Basque-French (left of Ferrari) Date Climbed: 15 August 2001  Sucess!

UlrichPrinz

We wanted to do the 'French Direct', but snowfall and fog prevented that.

Following the tracks in the snow we summited in the clouds - no view :-(

You can find my Trip-Report and more pictures by going to my homepage:

http://UlrichPrinz.de and then follow the links to Travel and Peru.

Posted Oct 25, 2001 12:40 pm

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