Alpamayo is one of the most beautiful ice faces of the Andes. It is located more remotely than most other peaks in C. Blanca, as the hike to the BC takes 2-3 days (see below). In the first map of Cordillera Blanca from 1932 Alpamayo was not indicated at all! Eventually it was climbed for the first time in 1957 by a German expedition via the N ridge.
Nowadays Alpamayo is well-known and was even elected the most beautiful mountain in the world. It is not the difficulty that inspires the climbers but it's magnificent setting among the everlasting snowcapes of the Cordilliera Blanca, 6000 meters above sea level.
Unfortunately, this makes the mountain very popular and sometime overcrowded. It can transform a beautiful 5 hours climb, when alone, into a nightmare of 15 hours with all the trafic when crowded. It is not unusual to find 10 to 15 partys camping at the col, waiting in line for a chance to scratch the face.
Approach and CampsFrom Huaraz, take a bus or collectivo to Caraz (2h) and then to Cashapampa (another 2h), where you will find the trailhead of the also very popular Santa Cruz trek. Hire burros ($5.00/day) and Arrieros ($10.00/day) at Cashapampa (always available).
You should check, when the last bus bus or collectivo leaves Cashapampa for Caraz (usually not later than 2-3 p.m.). So you can avoid to stay one day in Cashapampa on your way back.
From Cashapampa there are two routes to the two different Alpamayo BCs:
1. Nowadays the standard route uses the Santa Cruz Valley to reach a BC near Laguna Arhueycocha (4300m). The arrieros (mule drivers) usually do the ascent in 1½ days, but the descent is no problem in 1 day! Except for the last two hours the route is equal to the Santa Cruz - Llanganuco - Trek.
2. The old route via the Alpamayo Valley (Hualcayan, Laguna Cullicocha) takes 2½ to 3 days to the BC near Laguna Jancarurish at 4500m. This route is much less frequented. You must cross a 4800m pass to reach the Alpamayo Valley, which may cause problems to get back in case of altitude sickness. The old route however is the one with the "classic" view of Alpamayo. Some parties combine the two (ascent via Alpamayo Valley, descent via Santa Cruz Valley), but this means that you have to carry all your stuff up to the Alpamayo-Quitaraju-Col.
In the valleys you can camp anywhere you want. There are many possibilities, especially near the lakes. Remember that crowds (unfortunately) mean trash... so please preserve the purety of those mountains by carrying all your waste down with you.
From both BCs you must gain the high camp on the col (5400m)between Alpamayo and Quitaraju in an other long day. It is equal to the Quitaraju ABC. Ascending from Santa Cruz many parties use the "moraine" camp at 5000m, which provides space for several tents (dusty; water nearby during sunshine).
RoutesAlpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.
NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed. See summit log.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h
Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).
Mountain ConditionsAlpamayo is situated in the NE part of the Cordillera Blanca. This means that clouds come up from the Amazonas Basin more frequently. Expect 1-2 days / week with less perfect conditions (fog, snowfall) during the climbing season.
The col camp can be a cold and windy place. Be prepared!
Photos of the SW-face show that the number of rock-isles increased during the last 10 years. Whether this happens due to local or general changes of the climate is unclear..
Generally, the ascent to Alpamayo is considered rather safe. On July 21st, 2003 however, an ice-avalanche killed 8 climbers in Alpamayo SW-face. Obviously a huge cornice overhanging the summit ridge had collapsed.
- Mark Robbins Trip Report
M.R. especially did a great job on documenting all campsites along the way !
- Trip Report 2001 in German (DAV S. Braunschweig)
- Alpamayo + Tocllaraju Trip Report 1999
- Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca 2002. With lots of technical details.
- Nice Photos of an expedition to Alpamayo 2001. Trip Report still missing.
- Dutch Alpamayo Expedition 2001
Report of the Dutch Alpamayo Expedition 2001
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