Ancohuma (Jankhouma, Janq'uma) Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Humberto||Fun but long 3 days|
|Started at 4 am from La Paz and almost 4 hours later due to car troubles we made it to Sorata where we jumped into a 4x4 for the next hour. The approach to Laguna Glaciar is very long and the porters certainly earned their money. 200 Bs but you could probably negotiate to 150. As always get it in writing to avoid any "confusion" at the end of the day. |
One of our climbers was feeling bad so we took it easy for the remainder of the afternoon and enjoyed the stunning views!!The following day we hauled up rope/crampons/boots/tools and harnesses to high camp 1 at the beginning of the glacier hoping to free up some energy for the next day's long summit push.
Starting at midnight from Laguna Glaciar we traveled at a good pace and made the summit at exactly 7am. First part of the glacier was easy and safe, towards the middle we helped another group negotiate some huge crevasses and dicey snow bridges and eventually missed a crucial turn off that brought us to a 50ish degree 100m wall. It looked straight forward in the meager beams of our head lamps so off we went. After a few small patches of ice the snow became real nice so we soloed up and as dawn was breaking we found a way to link back up with the regular route just 150m from the summit. It got real cold on the way up and just as hot on the way down. We were back in the 4x4 by 5 and in La Paz for a late dinner that same night.
|Posted Jun 18, 2016 8:07 pm|
|nbaisburd||A warm climb|
|Fun easy climb. the weather was so nice that i end it up getting sun burned because i was tanning in my underwear at high camp.|
|Posted Dec 13, 2011 6:23 pm|
|LS||Nice warm day ! |
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2011
|Climbed with fellow SP'ers nbaisburd and kevin treu (see his log and advice below!!). See also trip report, GPS track and photos at my blog Distantpeak|
|Posted Sep 6, 2011 7:51 pm|
|kevin trieu||SW to NW |
Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2011
|planned for 8 days to do both Acahoma & Illampu but only made it up Acahoma. went up the SW ridge and down the NW ridge. weather stopped the traverse attempt to Agua Caliente. went back to La Paz and had a nice piece of steak and endless fries instead. Illampu will have to wait for another trip.|
be careful with the Guias Association in Sorata. they are thiefs and liars. they will charge you double for the Jeep ride and porters. the road to the "trailhead" of Acahoma is not 4x4. a taxi can be had for 100Bs and a porter 75Bs.
|Posted Sep 1, 2011 12:51 am|
|bighornmonkey||another twofer |
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2011
|Another 6000m twofer.|
day 1: leave Sorata and camp at Laguna Chillata
day 2: Get to ¨just below¨ Laguna Glacier
day 3: Summit push ANCOHUMA...steep, AD rating
day 4: traverse to Aquas Calientes (trailhead for Illampu)
day 5: move to Illampu high camp
day 6: Summit push ILLAMPU...D rating. Perfect weather!
Day 7: Walk down to Sorata...need a shower!
|Posted Aug 29, 2011 11:10 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2005
|Windiest day of my life. Final summit bid was an unconsolidated cornice ridge with 150kmh gusts ripping from the northwest. We bailed after starting the aux Chevalle. Wasn't properly acclimatized, came down with early stage pulmonary edema. Recommend climbers camp on the glacier above the lower crevasse field because there was no trail and route finding was a problem. This climb should have been simple but it wasn't. Dying to go back and get this one plus Illampu.|
|Posted Jan 28, 2011 1:03 pm|
|bdynkin||Summited with AlexeyD via Northwest Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2007
|Summited after 4 days from Sorata. Glacier below high camp (5700) was broken and looked "interesting" but proved easy. Route had steeper sections (55-deg max?) but not difficult technically. Summit huge and flat.|
|Posted Oct 8, 2009 12:50 pm|
|Climbed alpine style from Sorata (4 long days). Reached the summit with Martin Herzig & the Wunderlich brothers. It was a great route, technically easy but exposed. New altitude record for all of us!|
|Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:34 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009
|Failed to reach the summit this summer. Went up the normal route via Laguna Glaciar with René Escobar (Bol). During our way up we had met two other parties who weren't succesfull as well because of a combination of bad weather and glacier conditions. |
We encountered the same, the glacier was totally messed up. I knew it was very crevassed but this year it was even more, quite a lot of snowbridges as well, difficult route finding also because of the fairly amount of snow that had been fallen the weeks before. We went up quite high, but things became too risky for us.
Anyway beautiful mountain, taking the global warming into account, i think this one won't become the straightforward mountain it used to be, for a long while....
|Posted Aug 30, 2009 4:04 pm|
|AlexeyD||my highest peak|
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2007
|Summitted via the Northwest Ridge after making high camp around 5700 m. FYI the description of that route in the Yossi Brain guidebook is BS - there is nothing remotely close to 65-degree sections, it is not a technically difficult climb, just long and with occasional steep sections but no more than 50 degrees. It was quite cold and windy on the ridge, however, and the route is certainly not to be underestimated.|
|Posted Jul 18, 2007 3:36 pm|
Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2006
|We decided to climb from Laguna Verde to save money not hiring a Jeep aswell because its supposed to take less time. The weather was very discouraging on the approach, constant rain. We camped on the glacier at 5450 m after 3 days approach. The glacier was extremrly crevassed but finding route up was not to difficult. We were exhausted when we reached the base of the summit partly because we wernt very acclimatized. Also we wernt sure of the route, our porters had agreed to bring a map but they forgot it. We turned back because of uncertainty witrh the route and very poor visiblilty. |
I recomend for climbers to posible hire a porter to Laguna Verde as its hard to find teh way there if there is no vissibility. It is a great place to acclimatize well and then try the summit of Jakouma, I dont think it would be a very dificult climb with good weather and well acclimatized.
|Posted Feb 2, 2007 5:48 pm|