The upper part of the mountain forms a large tower with a prominent gully (Andrews renne) splitting the SW face. During the summer technically slightly easier (but more sustained) and less popular alternative to Heftye's renne. During the winter propably the easiest route.
During the summer mainly rock climb with Nor 3/3+ (UIAA IV, pretty sustained), AD-. During the winter more or less Scottish type snowed-up rock (Scottish 4(?), alpine D('ish)). 650m from Hytte på Bandet, 2,5-3,5h in summer conditions. Total 1600m, 4-5h from Turtagrø to summit in summer conditions. The times above are guidebook times for the ascent only in summer conditions, many (most?) parties take significantly longer.
From Turtagrø (834m) follow the path via Skagastølsdalen to Heimste Skardstølsvattnet (there's a hut at 1345 but is is only available for the members of Norske Tindeklubb (NTK)) and Skardstøsbreen (normally few if any crevasses) to the col between Søre Dyrhaugstind and Store Skagastøstind known as Bandet (unattended Skagastølsbu hut also known as Hytte på Bandet, 1758m, very full during the summer).
Ascent to the ill-defined and partly carned broad south ridge of Store Skagastølstinden (route marked with stone piles) for 600m (hard scrambling of Nor 1/2); it is advisable to keep well left after the first section to avoid difficult steep slabs. The route heads to the base of Andrews renne, a prominent gully splitting SW face (below the gully a large sledge slants up right (SE) leading to the Hjørnet). Climb up the gully to the col between south and main summits . This is exposed, but not too technical (Nor 3/3+ or UIAA IV or British Severe, 2-3 pitches/110m, rather sustained). Fairly good rock, but loose on ledges. 4-5h from hut. A bit more difficult variation on the right side (Nor 4). From the col, it is very short traverse to the summit.
- Same route: rappel down the Andrews renne and walk down to Bandet.
- Strong climbers may choose to continue over the ridge to Mohn Skar (Nor 2) and further along Skastølsryggen towards Turtagrø. (Skagastølstraverse, NOR 4- in opposite direction, easier in this this direction, propably around Nor 3). See Styggedals- and Skagastøls ridge for further details.
- First ascent: Arthur Westlake Andrews, Ola Berge, O.K.Williamsson, 28.8.1899
- First ascent in winter: Fridthjof Lorentzen, Boye H. Schlytter, 29.3.1923
FactsRefer to Jotunheimen page for maps and guidebooks.
- NTK #29
- Lennon pp 64 1b