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Arete South (normal route)

 

Page Type: Route

Location: France, Europe

Object Title: Arete South (normal route)

Route Type: Mixed

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: F+ (UIAA II)

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvio1973

Created/Edited: Sep 7, 2005 / Sep 7, 2005

Object ID: 166658

Hits: 1731 

Page Score: 71.98%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


From the tiny village of La Berarde take the flat well-maintained footpath heading for the hut "Le Carrelet". 500m after take the bifurcation on the left and walk up via a steep trail to the hut "Temple-Ecrins" (2,410 m).
The hut (Tel. 0476790828 or 0476870373) is open all year but staffed only in summer untill the enf of the first or second week of September. Basic facilities are provided during winter (beds, blankets).

Route Description


The climb start from the hut "Temple-Ecrins". From the hut take a well marked trail that follows the SE side of Pic Coolidge and leads to the "Glacier de la Temple". The glacier is currently in a very bad state; although it is possible very late in summer season to cross the whole of the ice field without crampons or ice-axe some sections of the glacier could be very icy and hence extra care it is required expecially on the way down. In about 3 hours of strenuous walk-up - expecially if there is no snow and it is necessary to walk on stones and old ice - you will get to the "Col de la Temple" (3,322m).
Once on the col take direction East; about 50m from the Col de la Temple there is a narrow steep couloir. DO NOT take this couloir, but continue on its right where there is a delicate passage - not expecially difficult but a little exposed - and then follow the trail up trough the rocks. Easy scrambling untill 3,700m where you will get to a small ice-field. At this point crampons are necessary, expecially late in the summer. Cross the glacier and get to the top of this ice-field at about 3,800m; then take left and climb easily the false and after the true summit of the mountain.
Instead of the glacier it is possible to take just on the left a couloir that leads directly to the first false summit but here the quality of the rock is particulary bad.

Essential Gear


Helmet, crampons, ice-axe, carabiners and a couple of slings.
A rope is not an absolute must but there is a delicate exposed passage where it could be useful expecially if the rock is iced.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.