Arms Reduction, 5.9+, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Not sure where the 5.9+ is supposed to be on this route (FA and MP.com have it published as so) as there is little to any 5.9 movement.  Felt contrived to me.  There are exceptional routes that get ignored on this wall already:  Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches, Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c, 5 Pitches, Sweet Thin, 5.9, 7 Pitches and Requiem for a Tadpole, 5.9+, 5 Pitches, whilst folks line up in a congo line for Armatron.  Arms Reduction is not worthy to be included in that group. 

The first pitch meanders, eventually trending left into a seam/corner.  At over 200’ you find a decent gear belay stance.  The 2^nd pitch, at over 200’, can be extended up the aesthetic Armatron 5.6 pitch of brown stone rock that gives this wall its namesake, to a fixed rap at a sloped stance.  From there you can rappel or finish Armatron.

Climb any number of lower routes to attain the ledge system between Jackrabbit Buttress and the North Brownstone wall.  My preferences are Smooth Operator or Saddle Up, both at the same grade as Arms Reduction.  Smooth Operator is my favorite.  Hike over to the right-side base of the North Brownstone Wall.  To the right of Armatron’s start (bolts) is a crescent moon shape flake/corner.  Climb it and then climb straight up intermittent cracks on varnished face eventually trending left.

 Route Description

1^st Pitch- 215’-5.9/ Climb up the short crescent moon shaped flake/corner and head up straight from there.  Trend left, eventually landing a seam that climbs well below grade.  Comfortable gear belay can be had beyond 200’.  I did not consider it run out or 5.9+ as MP.com suggests nor identified any real 5.9 climbing moves.

2^nd Pitch- 215’-5.9/ Take the right crack option which is not a chimney as mentioned at MP.com.  A bit steeper than the first pitch, but still no real 5.9 moves of any kind.  When you reach a bushy ledge, traverse left and up the famous black varnished 5.6 pitch of Armatron.  Belay at a fixed rap beyond 200’.  Finish Armatron and walk off or rap from a variety of options along the way.

Descent

Continue to the top of Armatron and hike down the gully to the east back to the base of the route (biner approach shoes), or rap the wall via a variety of options.

Essential Gear

Singe to #3.  Wires.  Shoulder length slings.  Route sees sun morning to mid-afternoon in November.