Flew into Bevan Col with great weather on the 13th.
Tented in Todd Hut area. Kea's around but multiplied and lurked and hopped closer as I, the last one into the tents, watched and wondered.
Sure enough they were into the gear left outside and flapping scratching against the tent walls. This went on until darkness fell and kept the non Kiwis up and out tossing snowballs at them. They signal their departure with annoying calls for 15 mins. and then return with the same calls in the early morning hours.
Up at 3am and off for NW Ridge by 4. Ascended the ridge via several steep snow pitches well before the ramp. Wind picked up once on the ridge.
Third party on the rope had shoulder problems which slowed us in the few rock pitches up the first butress. With increasing wind and clouds we opted to abort only a third of the way up the ridge. View of Therma Glacier below was worth it.
I was going the next day but weather completely shut us in. 19 in the Todd hut that night. Cozy.
Other rope went up the SE Ridge and down the NW Ridge returning just as weather and darkness came in.
"All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night, in the dusty recesses of their minds, awake in the day to find that it was vanity. But the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes to make it reality."