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Austrian First Ascent

 
Austrian First Ascent

Page Type: Route

Location: Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, Asia

Lat/Lon: 35.85350°N / 76.42170°E

Object Title: Austrian First Ascent

Route Type: Snow/Ice-climb

Time Required: Two days

Difficulty: Difficult

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes
 

 

Page By: Fritz Wintersteller

Created/Edited: Dec 14, 2005 / Dec 20, 2005

Object ID: 167948

Hits: 2287 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach


We head from Broad Peak Base Camp (4.950m) on short skis on the right side of the glacier into the direction of the Savoia glacier. Inbetween two peaks we find a way up to a plateau. On 6.060m we erect our small tent. The peak on the right side is our goal for tomorrow.

Route Description


We reach the side cliff on skis in 6.300m. We exchange skis for crampons and ascent a 40° steep face for 300m. It gets even steeper after that and pure ice pushes us to the right side. Break at 6.900m. From that on we have hip deep, groundless snow all the way to the summit (7.360m). The summit is very steep and exposed.

We descent 900m by sliding on our backside down. From there we descent roped through the crevasses and jump over the side cliff. Then on skis down to the tent.

The next morning back to Broad Peak base camp. Trip duration 53 hours.


Essential Gear


skis, rope, crampons

Pure Alpine Style in the Himalayas


And, to make this expedition all the more remarkable, following their ascent of Broad Peak, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash, ascent of an nearby peak, Skilbrum, in pure alpine style. Starting from base camp at 4,950 metres, they camped at 6,060 metres, made the summit the next day, then camped again at 6,060 metres, and then returned to base camp the next morning.

The whole ascent, from base camp to base camp was done in 53 hours!

From all of the above, this 1957 expedition was a wonderful precursor of the new style of climbing that what was to follow, for example, by Messner and Habeler.

Text: Bill Buxton

Images

Fritz Wintersteller on the...Fritz Wintersteller ascending...Marcus Schmuck (c) Fritz...Marcus Schmuck skiing down...Fritz Wintersteller on the...Fritz Wintersteller on Skil...