Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.30280°N / 122.1517°W |
Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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or 5.9 A2 |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.11b (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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8 |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
Barad Dur is a must do for any Oregon hardman. First attempted by Wayne Arrington solo in the early 70's. A bit of aid was used on the first ascent wich Wayne Arrington and Mike Seeley finally completed in June of 1972. The FA and a few subsequent ascents have required bivis. Chris and Peter Fralick made the first free ascent in 1984. Recently in 2006, all of the belays where rebolted as well as some lead bolts. Some poor quality lead bolts still remain.Getting There
Once at Wolf rock follow the trail that starts below the conspicuous arch, then follow the trail at the base of the rock to the bottom of the route. Wich is obvious because of the 2 bolts at chest height.Route Description
P1 - 5.9+ - Head straight up following 5 bolts and the occasional gear placement to a belay at a small stance.P2 - 5.9 - From the belay head up past aluminum dowels and bolts and up to a left facing dihedral, climb the dihedral to a belay ledge. (note: pitches 1 & 2 link with a 60m)
P3 - 5.8 - Climb up and slightly left clipping two bolts to lower angled terrain head up and then left following bolts and gear to a small belay ledge.
P4 - 5.9+ - Head up and right on easy 5th class climbing then up to the crux moves below a roof head left to the belay at a small stance.
P5 - 5.10d or C1 - From the belay traverse out and right to a blind reach around the corner (crux) and then head up to a hanging belay.
P6 - 5.11b or C2 - Head straight up to a bolt and a fixed KB make and awkward move (crux) and protect well, then traverse to the right then up and out the roof. Belay is located shortly after.
P7 - 5.4 - From the belay traverse out left and then up following weaknesses look for a lone bolt.
P8 - Easy 5th - Head up weaknesses to the summit of Wolf Rock.
nowclimbing - Jul 29, 2011 1:13 pm - Voted 10/10
P2 Beta CorrectionAn important distinction: Corvallis' beta is pretty good overall, but on P2, THERE IS NO LEFT-FACING DIHEDRAL. The only left-facing dihedrals are way out right on Pooh Corner. There are some handsome looking belay ledges over there, but don't be tempted. Leave the P1 belay and head up and right into a (rather manky) RIGHT-FACING CORNER which you'll climb to a bolted belay with some old tat. Good luck on the rest of it.