High Dauphiné > Barre des Ecrins > Climber's Log
High Dauphiné > Barre des Ecrins > Climber's Log|
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| waribana | North face - normal route  | |
| First attempt: July 1980. Went up to refuge des Ecrins after a period of very bad weather. North face covered with over 1 m of fresh snow. No tracks. It took us 5 hours to reach the great serac barrier, where the attempt was abondoned. Succes in August 1981. Left overcrowded refuge des Ecrins (Over 300 people for approx. 100 sleeps - reservations were optional at the time)around 3 a.m. Perfect conditions allowed to take the direct (Coolidge) route (steep!). Summit around 7,30 a.m. Outstanding views, as far as the Matterhorn. | |
| Posted May 23, 2012 6:34 am | ||
| Flachlandtiroler | West ridge (normal route) Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2010 | |
| Seems that I've nearly met Sebastian as we spend several days in Ailefroide. Hut access was in rainy conditions so on the summit day we had fresh snow and only on other team aiming for the main peak. At noon the ridge was the only thing above the clouds, wonderful. | ||
| Posted Dec 15, 2011 8:38 am | ||
| [X] Bird | East ridge in ascent and west ridge in descent Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010 | |
| After a failed attempt on the Barre Noir couloir (I did not feel good)we wanted to try the Barre again. The Ecrins hut was fully booked so we went for the Glacier Blanc hut wich added 1,5 hours to the ascent. Decided to go up the normal route (fixed ladder across a crevace!) at first and then turn left under the summit rocks to join the east ridge. East ridge is AD-, only the climbing to get onto the ridge is tricky, lots of lose rock. Once on the ridge the rock quality is ok. Down climbing the west ridge (PD+) was interesting and airy here and there. Once off the west ridge we also did the Dome des Neige since it is close by. Then came the long long way down... | |
| Posted Sep 16, 2010 6:58 am | ||
| Sebastian Hamm | west ridge Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2010 | |
| Woke up at 2.45 a.m. With Nikman from Refuge des Ecrins via the north flank to Dome de Neige and solo via the west-ridge to the main peak. West ridge with snow. Alone on the summit. Very nice climbing. On the descent I have met a friendly austrian couple. Big crevasse in the north flank with a fixed ladder (FUN!) | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2010 5:06 am | ||
| FrançoisJ | Normal route Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1993 | |
| avec le Doud, Olivier et Ol | |
| Posted Mar 26, 2010 2:34 pm | ||
| barrys | I'll be back Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2008 | |
| First saw this mountain in the flesh 15years ago and that started my fascination with mountains. We paid for 3 days of a guides time for a refresher and Neige Cordier beforehand. Wanted to climb straight up the north face above the rimaye. Girlfriend's knee gave in, and got worse and worse, to the point where it was turn back while it was still possible, made it to maybe 3,7 only. Absolutely heartbreaking but I'll be back again! | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2009 3:05 pm | ||
| andrea.it | Coolidge route Date Climbed: May 24, 2009 | |
| Climbed the north face with Valerio and Sabrina. | |
| Posted May 26, 2009 10:41 am | ||
| mulidivarese | Coolidge! Date Climbed: May 24, 2009 | |
| From refuge ecrins by ski to the Dome de Neige. then back just at the footstep of the Bar, we claimbed by the coolidge direct colouir to the top. Nice steeped not complicated way up. Large scenario from the top. then we came down from the same route without any trouble Lovely two days Valerio | |
| Posted May 25, 2009 4:12 am | ||
| Probemeister | Normal route, descent direct from Pic Lory Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008 | |
| Another classic, from the Glacier Blanc hut, it was a long way! | ||
| Posted Oct 6, 2008 8:15 am | ||
| skileraar | Traverse Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2006 | |
| Returned on 4000m. | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2008 3:59 pm | ||
| Modi | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1991 | |
| In a very windy day from Refuge des Ecrins with Cesare,Attilio,Alfredo | |
| Posted Mar 2, 2008 7:47 am | ||
| schmid_th | I´ll catch you! Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2005 | |
| After snowfalls the whole night we tried to climb the ridge from Dome de Neige. But the complete ridge was icy and when 2 persons were fallen, we decided to reverse. Great mountain - I´ll come back - and then I win!!! | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2006 9:40 am | ||
| Trabalon | Normal route in august 2002 | |
| Very happy with this peak with my friend dani. The final ridge had a lot of ice and we had dificulties to climb it. This ridge if it isn't in good conditions is not PD!! Wonderful landscapes!! | |
| Posted Feb 28, 2006 5:50 pm | ||
| Bas Visscher | Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: august 2005 | |
| very nice climb | |
| Posted Jan 24, 2006 1:39 pm | ||
| bruno baschung | Route Climbed: normal (+ coolidge direct) Date Climbed: 4th august 1980 | |
| In my view the most beautiful mountain, just discover the north face early in the morning... A wonderful first 4000m peak I will always remember. Not technical (but the direct coolidge route, though very short (150m) is quite steep (45/50°). be cautious if icy! The view from the top is fantastic, there's no village or human activity seen from it, only the wilderness (except mountain huts) which is quite rare in the Alps from a 4000M peak... In spite of a lot of people climbing les Ecrins, mind the crevasses (and possible serac falls down the slopes) Bruno BASCHUNG | |
| Posted Sep 9, 2005 6:06 am | ||
| Louis | Route Climbed: North Face (normal route) Date Climbed: 25 June 2002 | |
| Two of us stayed at the refuge for 2 days, walking into the refuge from Ailefroide was a long hot slog. Climbed up the excellent Roche Faurio on the first day and this helped us acclimatise, so well in fact that, the next day we started at 1am and hooned up the Barre snow ascent in no time. Then we got to the ridge- we slowed down and took a low risk approach going up and down the ridge placing a few slings here and there. We abseiled down over the Bergschrund, then descended to the glacial plain of the glacier blanc as fast as we could to avoid being under the serac feild as the sun came up! Check out some photos on http://www.serrechevalier.co.uk/Serrechevalier2/barre.htm | ||
| Posted Dec 24, 2003 4:12 am | ||
| hmronnow | Route Climbed: Berarde-Col des Ecrins-North face-Barre des Ecrins Date Climbed: October 2002 | |
| Left Berarde at midnight, reached Col des Ecrins at dawn. Went up north face until end of glacier and then straight for the summit (i.e. not via the dome), reaching it around noon. Another 7 hours for return, making it an 17 hour roundtrip (slow - I know, but soloing I had no-one to carry my pack). Carried skis, but never used them, as glacier was icy making crampons easier on way up and safer on way down. Though rightmost part of base is easiest and hence very tempting. But few hours after passing, there was a huge chute of serracs from above - do not use it !!! The last 200 meters from where the glacier ends were covered by 5-15cm of clear ice plus 50 cm loose snow. This required decent crampons and ice axes. As an alternative to doing the non stop round trip, I recommend walking up to base of Col des Ecrins in the evening, bivouaking and continuing at first light. This was my 4th attempt. Very shortly, the previous 3: March 2002: Stayed in refuge des Ecrins (unmanned in March), but next day clouds came in and we did a lower peak to the right of Glacier Blanc May 2003: Bivouaced at base of Col des Ecrins, Glacier Blanc carried almost 1 meter of new powder snow, and we did not have skis. Did some rock climbing just to the right of Col des Ecrins and descended. (My partner stumbled in a shoe-lace and pierced his neck with the ice axe in the fall just before la Berarde. He made it to Grenoble in a helicopter, while I had to drive all the way - remember to put those things away when no longer needed) August 2003: Solo. Bivouacked at base of Col des Ecrins. Glacier Blanche had a crust insufficient to carry my weight, which reuired much energy, and hence slow ascent. About 2/3 up, clouds made visibility low, and I descended. This is why I carried those useless skis on final successfull atempt. There is a phenomenenal 3 volume guide book covering just about every route to every summit in les Ecrins, but I left it in France. Will update log when I get hold of it. | |
| Posted May 2, 2003 12:49 pm | ||
| nivagh | Route Climbed: N face / W ridge from Refuge des Ecrins Date Climbed: 20th July 1999 | |
| Hitched up to the Pré de Madame Carle at 1875m, from Embrun. Dashed up to the Refuge des Ecrins, where I bivvied, before setting out up the Glacier Blanc at about three o'clock. Uneventful climb as far as the Brèche Lory, when dawn broke. I left my pack at the shoulder, and continued up the Barre des Ecrins. Absolutely alone on the summit, which was the first time ever! Also ascended the Dôme de Neige on the descent. (Failed on first attempt due to stormy conditions.) | |
| Posted Jan 18, 2003 3:00 pm | ||
| Madveras | Route Climbed: Normal route, north face Date Climbed: Agoust 14 2001 | |
| I had to stay at Breche Lory because it was my first time at 4000m. and I felt so weak to atempt the summit ridge. But next time i will reach the summit :-) | |
| Posted May 30, 2002 3:41 pm | ||
| Mathias Zehring | Route Climbed: normal route (N-flank and NW-ridge) Date Climbed: August 1st 2001 | |
| a perfect day with clear sky and warm temperatures even at 4000 m. Thank god 90 % of the visitors of the Refuge des Ecrins only climb the Dome. For me it was the highlight of the summer! | |
| Posted Feb 9, 2002 7:16 am | ||
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![[X] Bird](/images/avatars/432714.jpg)
