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RomainNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006

Romain

Climbed with Rene' Renteria. This is a classic route. Photos and TR on my website.
Posted Jun 30, 2006 8:01 pm

asmrzNorth Arete of BCS in winter-Failed Attempt
Date Climbed: Feb 2, 1991

asmrz

Miguel Carmona and I skied from Tom's Place on Hwy 395 (Rock Creek Rd. is closed in winter) to Dade Lake in one day (23 miles) with winter overnight gear and full rack in February 1991 to attempt to climb the North Ridge of BCS in winter. At Dade Lake we were forced to take a day off to recover from the ski in and next day got up early to climb. Abandoned the climb on the 4th or 5th pitch, at the base of the three ribs as we both were unable to rewarm our hands and feet. It was unusually cold day, we climbed in leather mountain boots as we didn't think we could climb the arete in plastic boots. I'm not sure if this was ever attempted in winter since, does anyone know?
Posted May 3, 2006 9:57 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: September 11, 2005  Sucess!

Dave K

I finally went back under clear but cold conditions to get the summit block. This was a very enjoyable climb, one that I'm sure I will repeat.
Posted Dec 1, 2005 10:31 am

steelemanRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2005  Sucess!

steeleman

Awesome day, great weather. A bit sketchy due to snow and ice, but well worth the hike. Trip report here.
Posted Nov 7, 2005 12:38 pm

ripper333Route Climbed: northeast ridge Date Climbed: oct 2005  Sucess!
nice area with great views right out of the box..

the climbing got a bit sketchy at times with the rock

being covered with ice and snow from the night

before.. conditions improved as the day went on

with the sun warming things up.. climbed with dave
Posted Oct 18, 2005 3:50 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: east arete  Sucess!

tdoughty

nice route
Posted Oct 16, 2005 12:09 pm

SamanthaRoute Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: Sep. 11, 2005  Sucess!

Samantha

Very cold but much better the second time without dodging lightning bolts.
Posted Sep 12, 2005 8:44 pm

DebRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 4 Sept 05  Sucess!

Deb

Beautiful positive rock but too cold and windy for my taste! Awesome views from aloft and we spied a dude soloing the Northeast Ridge, never saw him descend by Cox Col though....? Of course we didn't descend properly either but did make it back to camp in mostly one piece.
Posted Sep 7, 2005 12:51 pm

Dave DalyRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: Sept 4 2005  Sucess!

Dave Daly

Exciting alpine climbing with my life partner Deb. The crux? Getting back to base camp at Dade Lake : P Seriously, I felt the highlights of the route was the 1st pitch '5.8 handcrack' (nice expanding flake near the bottom.....a bit spooky!). Pitch 5 was a bit demanding ("5.8 off-width"). We found out later after the trip that we did a variation to the right of the original route, that went 5.10. No wonder I was sucking "O's". I think we're done for awhile doing north facing routes. Nearly froze our butts off....minimal sun. All in all, a Sierra classic!
Posted Sep 6, 2005 12:29 pm

Desert SolitaireRoute Climbed: Cox Col Date Climbed: August 28, 2005  Sucess!

Desert Solitaire

Great climb w/ Jennie and Ed. Summit block was the most exciting feature of the weekend, and it was fun solving the problem all around the block. The backside seemed very doable, but we ended up surmounting it via the ledge and awkward mantle. Some fun 4th class downclimbing near the summit area. Thanks to my partners for the great company and fun climb!
Posted Sep 5, 2005 5:10 pm

uwjennieRoute Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: 8/28/05  Sucess!

uwjennie

Dayhike with Ed C. and Jeff D. Following our two day trip to Ritter and Banner, this seemed like a long Sunday. Great weather, lots of folks on the peak.
Posted Aug 29, 2005 2:00 am

Eric TiptonRoute Climbed: "Direct South Face" IV 5.9 Date Climbed: August 21 2005  Sucess!
Kenn Kenega and I Did this route from a camp just above Dade Lk. It took us about 2 hours to hike up Peppermint Pass and over Spire col and hike up to the far western end of the south face. With only a sentence for a description we had a little trouble finding the route. West of the "British Chimneys" we started up Dirty slabs for about 500' in elevation until we finaly hit the cornor system and roped up. We did 6 pitches of moderate climbing and gained the anchors below the summit of Bear Creek Spire. We were off the summit by 1:30 pm. Except for 1 move on the first pitch of the dihedral section and maybe 1 short dihedral section the climb was 5.7 or 8, the rock quality was pretty grainy but I"m sure it would clean up if more people did the route, it did fiish right at the summit. All in all it was a good adventure , but I did expect a little more of the climb. If you go this way don"t pass up the Rowell route on the south face it looked AWESOME.
Posted Aug 24, 2005 12:07 am

GlennGRoute Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: August 5th, 2005  Sucess!

GlennG

On the way back from Hilgard the clouds cleared enough for Rick and I to tag the summit. Really enjoyed the short class 4 near the summit.
Posted Aug 8, 2005 2:17 am

pdankRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 31st, 2005  Sucess!

pdank

"You know, I'm usually fairly lenient with people. But since you guys weren't honest with me, I'm gonna have to turn you around."



~ Forest Service Ranger



Well, I paid my taxes, drove all the way over here, everything is packed and I'm all fired up for the sharp end again...do you realize what you're asking me to do? Good thing for that "alternate" hiking trail just 200 yards back...and next time just keep doing your trail maintenance thing...i'll keep paying my taxes, leaving no trace, and baggin' peaks!



Posted Aug 2, 2005 4:00 am

awagherRoute Climbed: North East Ridge Date Climbed: July 31st, 2005  Sucess!

awagher

Great climb. Looking at the route descriptions here on SP I guess we did a variation. We stayed closer to the top of the ridge and crossed over to the west (?) side of the ridge and met up with what looks like the Ulrich route and climbed a chimney up to just below the summit block. Summit block is rather easy step up and super nice views all around. 3hrs from Dade lake to summit. Nice exposed class whatever climbing. Fun summit. Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Mark Ingram. Awesom views. Here are some pics...
Posted Aug 1, 2005 2:51 am

DeeDeeRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 11, 2002  Sucess!

DeeDee

Great route.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 10:32 pm

rdesotaRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: September 15, 2004  Sucess!

rdesota

Great route, fairly easy but very nice views. Beautiful weather, not a cloud in the sky!
Posted Jul 21, 2005 6:32 pm

aleasureRoute Climbed: North Arete:III 5.8 Date Climbed: July 16, 2004  Sucess!
A fun fairly easy route. Almost slept in, but made it with a kick in the butt from my partner. Polemonium in bloom on the route. Lots of flowers going off on the approach.
Posted Jul 14, 2005 4:08 pm

Matt WorsterRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 9 July 2005  Sucess!

Matt Worster

Climbed with Oaklander. Another day, another 17 hour outing. Worth every minute! Highly recommend the north arete.
Posted Jul 11, 2005 10:18 am

oaklanderRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 9, 2005  Sucess!

oaklander

Did the north arete in a very long day...beautiful weather all day (we saw both the sunrise and sunset...) fun route. "crux" pitch seemed easier than 5.8, while the second pitch felt harder than 5.7 ...oh well ,ratings are just a guide anyway
Posted Jul 10, 2005 9:28 pm

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