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awagherRoute Climbed: North East Ridge Date Climbed: July 31st, 2005  Sucess!


Great climb. Looking at the route descriptions here on SP I guess we did a variation. We stayed closer to the top of the ridge and crossed over to the west (?) side of the ridge and met up with what looks like the Ulrich route and climbed a chimney up to just below the summit block. Summit block is rather easy step up and super nice views all around. 3hrs from Dade lake to summit. Nice exposed class whatever climbing. Fun summit. Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Mark Ingram. Awesom views. Here are some pics...
Posted Aug 1, 2005 2:51 am

DeeDeeRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 11, 2002  Sucess!


Great route.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 10:32 pm

rdesotaRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: September 15, 2004  Sucess!


Great route, fairly easy but very nice views. Beautiful weather, not a cloud in the sky!
Posted Jul 21, 2005 6:32 pm

aleasureRoute Climbed: North Arete:III 5.8 Date Climbed: July 16, 2004  Sucess!
A fun fairly easy route. Almost slept in, but made it with a kick in the butt from my partner. Polemonium in bloom on the route. Lots of flowers going off on the approach.
Posted Jul 14, 2005 4:08 pm

Matt WorsterRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 9 July 2005  Sucess!

Matt Worster

Climbed with Oaklander. Another day, another 17 hour outing. Worth every minute! Highly recommend the north arete.
Posted Jul 11, 2005 10:18 am

oaklanderRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 9, 2005  Sucess!


Did the north arete in a very long day...beautiful weather all day (we saw both the sunrise and sunset...) fun route. "crux" pitch seemed easier than 5.8, while the second pitch felt harder than 5.7 ...oh well ,ratings are just a guide anyway
Posted Jul 10, 2005 9:28 pm

CompletebumRoute Climbed: Ulrich's Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!


Great way to start the day. The snow to Cox col was excellant, the suncups by Treasure Lakes were another stroy, and the route above was solid. Couldn't find the register but did get a good shot of my feet hanging over the south face.
Posted Jul 4, 2005 3:02 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: June 18, 2005


Lots of snow past Long Lake. Treasure Lakes were still frozen. Walked right across what I assume was Dade Lake.

The snow slopes above Dade Lake on the way to Cox Col were in excellent shape and got particularly steep just below the col. From the col, it was an easy scramble to the base of the headwall. Looked for the portion of the headwall shown in Bob Burd's route photo but couldn't ID it. My partner and I scrambled up some off-width cracks/narrow chimneys immediately below the summit crag and soon found ourselves at the summit register in the notch below the highest point. From there, a couple of easy but exposed moves landed me on the highpoint.

The extremely high winds that were forecast turned out to be a bit wimpier, gladly, than predicted.

Beautiful weather...a great time!
Posted Jun 20, 2005 1:03 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!


What an awesome route and a beautiful area! Climbed with Pavel on a glorious day. We belayed for the first five pitches and simuled the rest. Pavel did a masterful job leading the crux pitch (flakes on the right side of the OW). Several moves felt like pretty solid 5.8. It took us about 5 hours from the toe of the arete to the summit. Turns out we were the first party to do the route this year and the second party on the summit. Need to do the East Ridge next year!!
Posted Jun 13, 2005 9:25 am

Steve MackayRoute Climbed: Northeast Face/West Face variation Date Climbed: August 1977  Sucess!
Ullrichs was a devious man! We looked, but never did find a 3rd-class route to the top. After climbing the NE Face we traversed along the ridge north of the summit, then descended to the foot of the Ullrichs/Cox Col route. Climbed the headwall via a nifty 5.6 crack. Awesome views and great climbing! On the way down, we bivvied (planned), rescued two unequipped climbers (unplanned), survived an all-night thunderstorm that dropped 3 inches of hail, then awoke to a wonderful cloudscape of all conceivable colors as the rising sun lit up the peaks and the remains of the storm. What a grand experience!
Posted May 18, 2005 1:43 pm

Steve LarsonRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 29, 2004  Sucess!

Steve Larson

This was my second time up BCS. The North Arete is a fantastic route. My partner opted to doze in the sun while I scrambled up the summit block. Oh well, his loss.
Posted Nov 5, 2004 9:18 pm

dshoshoneRoute Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug. 13-2003  Sucess!


Ran into 3 Sierra Challengers,they led me to the summit. Thanks Bob,Michael,Matthew
Been up twice more via NE ridge
Posted Oct 6, 2004 6:18 pm

stoneman5Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: September 12, 2001  Sucess!


Great fun. Cold.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:23 pm

ScottySRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: September 5, 2004  Sucess!


Did this climb almost on a whim during Labor Day vacation --- wore my Tevas to the top! See this trip report for the details. VERY FUN CLIMB!!!
Posted Sep 7, 2004 5:02 am

ShaaseRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 16, 2004  Sucess!


45 min. after a "no go" decision a hole in the weather appeared. We shoulder'd our packs squeezing through danting Sierra storm threats. Descent in slight drizzle with infrequent bright flashes. It was a great day for us....
Posted Aug 10, 2004 2:54 pm

CPSLOKornyRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 2004  Sucess!


Excellent weather, a little traffic while climbing but well worth it.
Posted Aug 8, 2004 5:04 am

poorboy44Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!


Cool route, we went to the left at the OW, it was only 5.7 or so.

I like the summit.
Posted Jul 23, 2004 2:36 pm

brandonRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2004  Sucess!


Lots of fun. Good bit of loose stuff in the corner/OW at the headwall, about 5.8, and the rest no harder than 5.7.
Posted Jul 6, 2004 6:40 pm

gordonyeRoute Climbed: Northwest face via Cox Col (Ulrich's) Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004  Sucess!


Climbed with Vladimir Ulyashin from camp by a little tarn on top of the ridge between Gem and Treasure Lakes. The slopes before Cox Col had extensive snow cover that was perfect for kicking steps. At Cox Col we met 2 climbers who also go to the Berkeley Ironworks. I carried Bob Burd's photo of the summit headwall and it proved very useful. With rock shoes I was able to climb up the headwall through Bob's "easier chimney". We rappelled down a different headwall on the west side of the summit. Great peak with lots of exposure on every side and some challenging climbs. Then after sundown we spent 2+ hours looking for our tent, finally found it after comparing profiles of surrounding mountains with digital photos taken in the morning from the camp site. What a day!!!
Posted Jul 6, 2004 11:19 am

Dave KRoute Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2003
Dodged lightning all afternoon, including a quick retreat just before reaching the summit ridge, only to try again minutes later. In retrospect, climbing this sucker that day probably wasn't a good idea, but oh well. Didn't climb the summit block because the clouds were building again and the summit block was wet.
Posted Apr 14, 2004 12:36 am

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