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Bombs Under Tokyo
Route

Bombs Under Tokyo

 

Page Type: Route

Location: North America

Object Title: Bombs Under Tokyo

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.12 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
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Page By: gremlin

Created/Edited: Aug 31, 2009 / Aug 31, 2009

Object ID: 547355

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Overview

Rebolted crux pitch of what was thought to be Bombs Over Tokyo, but apparently is a lower variation than the original, the original is shown as the aid variation in the guide.

Getting There

Left of West Crack, just before Cooke Book

Route Description

P1: really classic crack that thins down up high to rap anchors, .10c.
P2: short, crumbly .11d R slab with micro nuts to a pin, then up onto an easy slab to another fixed anchor.
P3: the business- follow the new bolts right around the corner, and continue on breaking flakes, to more trickery at the lip of the roof before heading up to more fixed anchors. Friend did the moves, I did all but 2 short sections following to avoid pendulums over the lip, probably .12+, but holds were breaking.
P4: .10+ face climbing up knobs, really good, up to ledge.
P5: .7 or something easy to the top past more bolts.

Essential Gear

set of cams to hand size, maybe doubles in the smaller sizes, micro nuts, and draws.

External Links

Add External Links text here.

Images

2nd pitch seam