Brèche Lory, Normal : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Approach

See "Getting There" in the MAIN PAGE to get to the base of the climb, Refuge Cézanne (1.784 m). Cross over the fields of debris to the bridge over the outflow from the Glacier Noir. Take the grassy slope on the right in bends, over a rock-studded spur and traverse to the tongue of Glacier Blanc. Move up over the polished rocks on the right (E) of the glacier (on an ugly steel staricase with railings), past the ruins of the ancient Refuge Tuckett, and go N to Refuge de Glacier Blanc (2.550 m). Contunue 2 Km up along the edge of the glacier to a rock spur (3.016 m). Beyond this climb right in an arc to the already visible Refuge des Ecrins (3.175 m), high above the glacier.

Route Description

Go down to the glacier to join the route ascending straight from Refuge de Glacier Blanc. Continue on the N edge of the glacier, to the proximity of Col des Ecrins, sunk between Roche Faurio (N) and Barre des Ecrins (S). Before reaching the rock towers of Clochetons de Bonne Pierre climb, obliquely left up the steep, avalanche-scarred slope wich is thretened by the seracs above. Follow a usually marked trail in the direction of Point 3.791 m, on the E ridge of Barre des Ecrins. When close under the bergschrund, traverse to the right along a shlightly inclined terrace to Brèche Lory (3.974 m). Finally traverse right to the snow top of Dôme de Neige des Ecrins (4.015 m).