Overview
Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc seen from Aiguille de l'Index
Seventh pitch's beautiful crack
Brunat-Perroux Route
On the sunny East face of Aiguille de l'Index a fine and homogeneous route grading 4b-5b is running on very good gneiss. Another important quality of this route is the variety of the climbing styles on slabs, cracks and little walls.
Getting There
Grandes Jorasses North face seen from l'Index
ROAD ACCESS TO CHAMONIX MONT BLANC
- From Italy: from Courmayeur you can reach the town of Chamonix through Mont Blanc Tunnel
- From Switzerland:
from Martigny (Wallis) follow the road leading to the Switzerland – France border, then to the village of Argentiere and before getting to Chamonix to Les Praz (42 km. from Martigny).
- From Geneve - Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix
From Chamonix Mont-Blanc head towards NE and reach the village of Les Praz (3 km. from Chamonix). Take the cable-car to “La Flegere”, then the chair-lift of the Index.
More information here:
BREVENT-LA FLEGERE
Route Description
Third pitch
BRUNAT - PERROUX ROUTE (AIGUILLE DE L’INDEX)
Summit altitude: m. 2595
Difficulty: TD inf., F5b max
Equipment: pegs and bolts
Climbing length: 250 mt.
Exposure: E
First ascent: Jean-Christophe Brunat and Godefroy Perroux in 1985
Starting point: Index chair-lift upper station (Chamonix Mont Blanc).
BRUNAT - PERROUX ROUTE REPORT (French scale)
From the upper station of the Index chair-lift a short trail towards left (SW) leads to the base of Aiguille de l’Index East face (5 minutes). This obvious face situated quite in front of the chair-lift upper station is cut in the middle by a wide grassy ledge. The route starting point is situated below a corner.
P1 – A long pitch; climb the right face of the corner, then some steep little walls following one another. Belay inside the corner. 5b, 45 m.
P2 – Another long pitch; climb the corner again, 5a, and some little walls on the left, 4b, then go slants to right and climb a spur leading to a stance, lying some meters before the middle grassy ledge. 5a, then 4b, 50 m.
P3 – Cross the ledge slants to right and belay at a bolt on a slab, some meters on the right of a little gully.
P4 – Another long pitch; climb directly a slab and some little walls following one another, then go lightly slants to right. 4b, 5b, 50 m.
P5 – After some steep steps, 4b, climb a magnificent crack cutting an orange wall, 5b, then a slab.
Good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P6 – Traverse 2 meters left to take a slab, 5b, then climb another slab and some little walls. Another good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P7 – Climb a steep wall cut by a beautiful thin and technical crack, 5b, then go slants to right climbing a slab, 4b, leading towards the SE ridge. Belay under a reddish wall. 5b, 4b, 37 m.
P8 – Climb a short chimney-crack, then the summit ridge leading to the top. 3c. 35 m.
Descent: from the summit scramble down a few meters towards N to find a stance with a double abseils’anchors. Two abseils (30 m. and 50 m.) are leading to the Eastern gully of the Index Col.
From here follow a steep trail, easy without snow, leading to the starting point.
Essential Gear
Rope 2x50 m, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends 1,2,3, 10 quickdraws.Red tape
No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.When to climb
Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.Where to stay
Chamonix is a primary touristic destination. Hotels, huts and gites. Numberless campings in the West end and East end of the town.Meteo
METEO CHAMONIXOther informations
- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024Chamonix Mont-Blanc
- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix www.ohm-chamonix.com Phone +33 0450 532208
- Cable-car informations www.chamonix.com www.compagniedumontblanc.fr Phone +33 0450 532275
Guidebooks and maps
- “Les Aiguilles Rouges – Face au Mont Blanc” by Michel Piola –
- “Alpes Francaises du Nord” by Hervè Galley - Editions Olizane
External Links
BREVENT-LA FLEGEREImages
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