On the sunny East face of Aiguille de l'Index a fine and homogeneous route grading 4b-5b is running on very good gneiss. Another important quality of this route is the variety of the climbing styles on slabs, cracks and little walls.
ROAD ACCESS TO CHAMONIX MONT BLANC
- From Italy: from Courmayeur you can reach the town of Chamonix through Mont Blanc Tunnel
- From Switzerland:
from Martigny (Wallis) follow the road leading to the Switzerland – France border, then to the village of Argentiere and before getting to Chamonix to Les Praz (42 km. from Martigny).
- From Geneve - Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix
From Chamonix Mont-Blanc head towards NE and reach the village of Les Praz (3 km. from Chamonix). Take the cable-car to “La Flegere”, then the chair-lift of the Index.
More information here:
BRUNAT - PERROUX ROUTE (AIGUILLE DE L’INDEX)
Summit altitude: m. 2595
Difficulty: TD inf., F5b max
Equipment: pegs and bolts
Climbing length: 250 mt.
First ascent: Jean-Christophe Brunat and Godefroy Perroux in 1985
Starting point: Index chair-lift upper station (Chamonix Mont Blanc).
BRUNAT - PERROUX ROUTE REPORT (French scale)
From the upper station of the Index chair-lift a short trail towards left (SW) leads to the base of Aiguille de l’Index East face (5 minutes). This obvious face situated quite in front of the chair-lift upper station is cut in the middle by a wide grassy ledge. The route starting point is situated below a corner.
P1 – A long pitch; climb the right face of the corner, then some steep little walls following one another. Belay inside the corner. 5b, 45 m.
P2 – Another long pitch; climb the corner again, 5a, and some little walls on the left, 4b, then go slants to right and climb a spur leading to a stance, lying some meters before the middle grassy ledge. 5a, then 4b, 50 m.
P3 – Cross the ledge slants to right and belay at a bolt on a slab, some meters on the right of a little gully.
P4 – Another long pitch; climb directly a slab and some little walls following one another, then go lightly slants to right. 4b, 5b, 50 m.
P5 – After some steep steps, 4b, climb a magnificent crack cutting an orange wall, 5b, then a slab.
Good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P6 – Traverse 2 meters left to take a slab, 5b, then climb another slab and some little walls. Another good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P7 – Climb a steep wall cut by a beautiful thin and technical crack, 5b, then go slants to right climbing a slab, 4b, leading towards the SE ridge. Belay under a reddish wall. 5b, 4b, 37 m.
P8 – Climb a short chimney-crack, then the summit ridge leading to the top. 3c. 35 m.
Descent: from the summit scramble down a few meters towards N to find a stance with a double abseils’anchors. Two abseils (30 m. and 50 m.) are leading to the Eastern gully of the Index Col.
From here follow a steep trail, easy without snow, leading to the starting point.
Essential GearRope 2x50 m, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends 1,2,3, 10 quickdraws.
Red tapeNo particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.
When to climbBest season goes from middle June to the end of September.
Where to stayChamonix is a primary touristic destination. Hotels, huts and gites. Numberless campings in the West end and East end of the town.
Other informations- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024
- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix www.ohm-chamonix.com Phone +33 0450 532208
- Cable-car informations www.chamonix.com www.compagniedumontblanc.fr Phone +33 0450 532275
Guidebooks and maps
- “Les Aiguilles Rouges – Face au Mont Blanc” by Michel Piola –
- “Alpes Francaises du Nord” by Hervè Galley - Editions Olizane