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Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)

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Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l\'Index)

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.96839°N / 6.86654°E

Object Title: Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: D, French 5b

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Aug 8, 2012 / Mar 11, 2016

Object ID: 804967

Hits: 2643 

Page Score: 87.76%  - 25 Votes 

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Overview



Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)


Aiguilles Rouges may appear small mountains when compared to the giant lying in front of, anyhow they really are a great balcony, giving magnificent views over the massif of Mont Blanc. Actually this fascinating range is rather wide and consists of many interesting summits. Moreover the setting is gorgeous and these peaks offer several interesting climbs.

Brunat-Perroux third pitch, Aiguille de l'Index
Brunat Perroux third pitch

Mont Blanc group seen from the summit of Aiguille de l'Index
Summit of Aiguille de l'Index



One of these latter is Aiguille de l'Index, or simply Index, a popular rocky peak resembling an index finger as seen from the village of La Praz, near Chamonix. On its sunny East face a fine and homogeneous route grading 4b-5b is running on very good gneiss, rough and worked. Another important quality of this route is the variety of the climbing styles on slabs, cracks and little walls.

Grandes Jorasses and Rochefort annotated panoPanorama from Aiguille de l'Index

Getting There

 
Beautiful crack on Brunat-Perroux route, Aiguille de l Index
Beautiful crack on Brunat-Perroux route, Aiguille de l'Index


The starting point to get the Aiguilles Rouges massif is the town of Chamonix, in the French side of Mont Blanc Group.

Road access to Chamonix Mont Blanc

- Coming from Italy: from Courmayeur you must follow the Mont Blanc Tunnel

- Coming from Wallis (Switzerland): from Martigny (Wallis) follow the road leading to the Switzerland – France border, getting the village of Argentiere and before Chamonix getting Les Praz (42 km. from Martigny).

- Coming from Geneve - Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix and Les Praz

From Chamonix Mont-Blanc head towards NE and reach the village of Les Praz (3 km. from Chamonix). Take the cable-car to “La Flégère”, then the chair-lift of the Index.

More information here:
BREVENT-LA FLEGERE

Route Description

Brunat - Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index) - French Scale

Summit altitude: m. 2595
Difficulty: D, F5b max
Equipment: pegs and bolts
Climbing length: 250 mt.
Exposure: E
First ascent: Jean-Christophe Brunat and Godefroy Perroux in 1985
Starting point: Index chair-lift upper station (Chamonix Mont Blanc).

Mont Blanc Group Northern view annotated panoAiguille de l'Index annotated panorama


Brunat - Perroux route report (French scale)

Approach - From the upper station of the Index chair-lift a short trail heading towards left (SW) leads to the base of Aiguille de l’Index East face (5 minutes). This obvious face situated quite in front of the chair-lift upper station is cut in the middle by a wide grassy ledge. The route starting point is situated near a slab on the right of a corner closed by a roof.

P1 – A long pitch; climb the right face of the corner, then some steep little walls following one another. Belay inside the corner. 5b, 45 m.
P2 – Another long pitch; climb the corner again, 5a, and some little walls on the left, 4b, then go slants to right and climb a spur leading to a stance, lying some meters before the middle grassy ledge. 5a, then 4b, 50 m.
P3 – Cross the ledge slants to right and belay at a bolt on a slab, some meters on the right of a little gully.

Petit Dru and Aiguille Verte stand out the clouds
Petit Dru and Verte stand out the clouds

Brunat Perroux topo
Brunat-Perroux topo

A notch on Index South-East ridge
Notch on classic SE ridge



P4 – Another long pitch; climb directly a slab and some little walls following one another, then go lightly slants to right. 4b, 5b, 50 m.
P5 – After some steep steps, 4b, climb a magnificent crack cutting an orange wall, 5b, then a slab.
Good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P6 – Traverse 2 meters left to take a slab, 5b, then climb another slab and some little walls. Another good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P7 – Climb a steep wall cut by a beautiful thin and technical crack, 5b, then go slants to right climbing a slab, 4b, leading towards the SE ridge. Belay under a reddish wall. 5b, 4b, 37 m.
P8 – Climb a short chimney-crack, then the summit ridge leading to the top. 3c. 35 m.

Brunat-Perroux third pitch, Aiguille de l'Index
Brunat Perroux third pitch

Mont Blanc group seen from the summit of Aiguille de l'Index
Summit of Aiguille de l'Index



Descent: from the summit scramble down a few meters towards NW along the summit ridge to find a stance with a double abseils’anchors. Two abseils (30 m. and 50 m.) are leading to the Eastern gully of the Index Col.
From here follow a steep trail towards East, easy without snow, leading to the starting point.

Essential Gear

Rope 2x50 m, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends 1,2,3, 10 quickdraws, slings.

Red tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Mont Blanc massif views from Index

 
The Grandes Jorasses North face
Grandes Jorasses North face
 
Mont Blanc massif seen from Index
Mont Blanc massif seen from Index
 
Mont Blanc seen from Index
Mont Blanc seen from Index
 
Flying over Mont Blanc massif
Paraglider over Mont Blanc Massif

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.

Where to stay

Chamonix is a primary touristic destination. Hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms. Numberless campings are situated in the Northern and Southern ends of the town.

Main campsites:

- Camping la Mer de Glace - Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière - Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124

Meteo

METEO CHAMONIX

METEO FRANCE

Other informations

- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024
Chamonix Mont-Blanc

- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 532208
Office de la Haute Montagne

- Cable-car informations Phone +33 0450 532275
CompagnieduMontBlanc

Guidebooks and maps

 
Aiguilles Rouges map
 







    - "Monte Bianco classico & plaisir" by Marco Romelli, Edizioni Idea Montagna

    - "Mont Blanc & the Aiguilles Rouges" - selected climbs - in English

    - “Les Aiguilles Rouges – Face au Mont Blanc” by Michel Piola –

    - “Alpes Francaises du Nord” by Hervè Galley - Editions Olizane

    External Links

    BREVENT-LA FLEGERE

    Images