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Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)
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Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)

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Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l\'Index)

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.96839°N / 6.86654°E

Object Title: Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: D, French 5b

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Aug 8, 2012 / Nov 22, 2013

Object ID: 804967

Hits: 1556 

Page Score: 86.85%  - 23 Votes 

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Overview

Brunat-Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index)





Aiguilles Rouges are small mountains if compared with the giant lying in front of, but they are really a great balcony, giving magnificent views over the massif of Mont Blanc. Moreover, the fine peaks of this group offer several interesting climbs. One of these is Aiguille de l'Index, or simply Index. On its sunny East face a fine and homogeneous route grading 4b-5b is running on very good gneiss, rough and worked. Another important quality of this route is the variety of the climbing styles on slabs, cracks and little walls.

Getting There

 
The Grandes Jorasses North face
Grandes Jorasses North face seen from l'Index


The starting point to get the Aiguilles Rouges massif is the town of Chamonix, in the French side of Mont Blanc Group.

Road access to Chamonix Mont Blanc

- Coming from Italy: from Courmayeur you must follow the Mont Blanc Tunnel

- Coming from Wallis (Switzerland): from Martigny (Wallis) follow the road leading to the Switzerland – France border, getting the village of Argentiere and before Chamonix getting Les Praz (42 km. from Martigny).

- Coming from Geneve - Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix and Les Praz

From Chamonix Mont-Blanc head towards NE and reach the village of Les Praz (3 km. from Chamonix). Take the cable-car to “La Flégère”, then the chair-lift of the Index.

More information here:
BREVENT-LA FLEGERE

Route Description

Brunat - Perroux Route (Aiguille de l'Index) - French Scale

Summit altitude: m. 2595
Difficulty: D, F5b max
Equipment: pegs and bolts
Climbing length: 250 mt.
Exposure: E
First ascent: Jean-Christophe Brunat and Godefroy Perroux in 1985
Starting point: Index chair-lift upper station (Chamonix Mont Blanc).

Brunat - Perroux route report (French scale)

From the upper station of the Index chair-lift a short trail heading towards left (SW) leads to the base of Aiguille de l’Index East face (5 minutes). This obvious face situated quite in front of the chair-lift upper station is cut in the middle by a wide grassy ledge. The route starting point is situated near a slab on the right of a corner closed by a roof.


 
Brunat Perroux topo
Brunat Perroux route topo

 
Beautiful crack on Brunat-Perroux route, Index
A beautiful crack on Brunat-Perroux route



P1 – A long pitch; climb the right face of the corner, then some steep little walls following one another. Belay inside the corner. 5b, 45 m.
P2 – Another long pitch; climb the corner again, 5a, and some little walls on the left, 4b, then go slants to right and climb a spur leading to a stance, lying some meters before the middle grassy ledge. 5a, then 4b, 50 m.
P3 – Cross the ledge slants to right and belay at a bolt on a slab, some meters on the right of a little gully.
P4 – Another long pitch; climb directly a slab and some little walls following one another, then go lightly slants to right. 4b, 5b, 50 m.
P5 – After some steep steps, 4b, climb a magnificent crack cutting an orange wall, 5b, then a slab.
Good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P6 – Traverse 2 meters left to take a slab, 5b, then climb another slab and some little walls. Another good stance. 5b, 4b, 40 m.
P7 – Climb a steep wall cut by a beautiful thin and technical crack, 5b, then go slants to right climbing a slab, 4b, leading towards the SE ridge. Belay under a reddish wall. 5b, 4b, 37 m.
P8 – Climb a short chimney-crack, then the summit ridge leading to the top. 3c. 35 m.

Descent: from the summit scramble down a few meters towards NW along the summit ridge to find a stance with a double abseils’anchors. Two abseils (30 m. and 50 m.) are leading to the Eastern gully of the Index Col.
From here follow a steep trail towards East, easy without snow, leading to the starting point.

Essential Gear

Rope 2x50 m, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends 1,2,3, 10 quickdraws, slings.

Red tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Mont Blanc massif views from Index

 
Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc seen from Aiguilles Rouges
Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc
 
Flying over Mont Blanc massif
Flying over Grandes Jorasses
 
Mont Blanc massif seen from Index
Mont Blanc massif
 
Mont Blanc seen from Index
Mont Blanc main summit

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.

Where to stay

Chamonix is a primary touristic destination. Hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms. Numberless campings are situated in the Northern and Southern ends of the town.

Main campsites:

- Camping la Mer de Glace - Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping Glacier d'Argentière - Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124

Meteo

 
Aiguilles Rouges map
 


METEO CHAMONIX

METEO FRANCE

Other informations

- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024

Chamonix Mont-Blanc


- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 532208

Office de la Haute Montagne


- Cable-car informations Phone +33 0450 532275

CompagnieduMontBlanc

External Links

BREVENT-LA FLEGERE



Guidebooks and maps

- "Monte Bianco classico & plaisir" by Marco Romelli, Edizioni Idea Montagna

- “Les Aiguilles Rouges – Face au Mont Blanc” by Michel Piola –

- “Alpes Francaises du Nord” by Hervè Galley - Editions Olizane

Images