Buffon’s Needle Problem, 5.10, 7 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Buffon’s Needle Problem (named after the earliest problem in geometric probability to be solved) is a relatively new route (first recorded ascent in 2015) on Jackrabbit Buttress.  As of 2021, it will now be my preferred lower approach route to access (link up) routes I enjoy climbing on the Brownstone Walls, i.e., this trip it was Pro Choice.

For a competent party, the route really only consists of two solid 5.10 leads.  But there are no sustained 5.10 or 5.11 routes on Jackrabbit's south face.  Even for a purist like me, the first pitch is not worthy of climbing.  The route is best started by ascending a gully left to right just inside the canyon, to reach the base of a nice right facing corner below a chockstone roof. A stellar first pitch takes on two roofs.  It can be broken up to avoid rope drag and/or getting your rope(s) stuck in the roofs, but if led properly that no doubt can be avoided.  If you take it as one pitch, you end up at a comfortable belay just to the right of a fixed rap placed out on the left, well varnished, arete. A second 5.10 lead can combine several of the pitches all the way through the “eye of the Needle” which is essentially an arch.  This pitch offered fantastic varied climbing at the grade.  It starts out with exposure making intricate face moves via intricate pro, then pulls an airy roof.  It continues up a slightly overhanging tight hands corner to a challenging squeeze through the arch itself to a comfortable belay on the other side below a lower angled face.  The rest is a long low angled simul climb via large features to the south shoulder summit of Jackrabbit Buttress.

Park at Oak Creek Canyon and hike into Juniper Canyon as you would for the Brownstone or Rainbow Walls.  As soon as you enter the mouth of the canyon, look to scramble up a gully on your right which takes a small amount of bushwhacking.  Scramble up until you can take an exposed 4^th class traverse across a short face to the right which lands you directly below the first chockstone roof.  Leave your packs closer towards the canyon so they are quicker to retrieve on return from whatever link up you end up doing higher up.  As of 2021 you cannot rap the route.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 200’-4^th Class/ The FAer’s have you climb choss on the arete at 5.7.  It is best to bypass the arete to the left and scramble up a gully to a short and exposed 4^th class traverse right into the alcove below the first 5.10 pitch, a right facing corner below a roof. Leave your packs lower.

2nd-3rd Pitches-185’-5.10/ The FAer’s warn against combining these pitches due to getting ropes stuck either in cams or the roof crack itself.  My partner went for the 2^nd roof and in fact did have to untie one of our ropes so he could make the ledge before the traverse out left.  The route goes much better this way, but it will take precision and thoughtful gear placement to pull both roofs and keep your rope(s) clean.  The first roof, the left side of a massive chockstone, protects well with a #4 at the edge of the roof.  You feel some exposure on the traverse below the roof left, but decent feet keep it 5.10-.  The second roof was more pedestrian, again, pulling a massive chockstone on the left.  Belay on gear on a comfortable ledge, to the right of a fixed rap out on the arete.

3rd-4th Pitches- 120’-5.10/ Since my partner pulled the 2^nd roof which is the start of pitch 3, I went for the eye of the needle from here which made for a great pitch.  This is the crux climbing of the route offering some interesting exposure with a wide variety of climbing technique employed.  Traverse left past the fixed rap.  You feel as though you are climbing into the abyss.  Once you pass the arete you find a sloping corner that take wires and micro gear. Make an awkward balance move or two up this corner and pull the roof with invigorating exposure. Continue up a slightly overhanging left facing tight hands corner and make a squeeze through the “eye of the needle” (arch).  Your hips will cause you more issues than your helmet.  I have a 28” waist.  It is tight. Belay off a horn on a comfortable ledge through the other side of the needle.   This version allows for a fantastic lead in the 5.10 realm.

5^th-7^th Pitches- Most competent parties will want to simul climb from here.  I experienced nothing over 5.7. You cover about 600’+/- to the top.  This part of Jackrabbit Buttress is taller compared to any of the routes up canyon obviously.   Just follow the initial corner and trend left.  It is all easy ground.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

If not doing a link to another route up on Brownstone Walls, simply hike west until you can return down canyon to your packs.

Essential Gear

Single to #4 including micros and wires.  Double on a few medium pieces.  Shoulder length slings.  Route is south facing but will get early shade by the opposing walls.