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Buster, NEI 2-3

Buster, NEI 2-3

Buster, NEI 2-3

Page Type: Route

Location: New York, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.23750°N / 73.878°W

Object Title: Buster, NEI 2-3

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: NEI 2-3

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: James_W

Created/Edited: Feb 10, 2008 / Mar 23, 2008

Object ID: 379903

Hits: 3365 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Buster is a great climb for new leaders as the route starts hard and eases off until the steep finish. The minimal approach and location (Cascade Pass) of this climb make it popular.

Getting There

Drive on Route 73 from Lake Placid towards keene. Once you pass the Cascade Mountain trailhead continue until you see a small sign on the right labelled Pitchoff Walls, park here.

Buster is located to the right of Sisters (Left/Right) and left of Boozer.
It is the obvious stepped flow that has a large bulge 20 feet from the base.

Route Description

Buster is 2 pitches and 300 feet long.

Pitch 1 - The left and center of the start is NEI 3, an easier climb is found on the right NEI 2. After getting above the first bulge climb the center of the flow until reaching one of the 2 thick trees on the right to setup belay.

Start of Pitch 1

Leading 1st Pitch

Pitch 2 - Proceed up the stepped flow until reaching many options for a finish. Alternatives rated up to NEI 4 are possible on the left. Following the main flow is NEI 2-3.

Pitch 2 options (NEI 2-4)

Descend the route with 2 rappels.

Essential Gear

4-5 screws
2 long slings


Anita on TR after coming down from leadLeading the first pitchBuster (Early Season)Pitch 2 options (NEI 2-4)Start of Pitch 1Buster NEI 2-3Leading 1st Pitch
Heading DownLeading BusterRoute 73 from BusterBuster (Full Route)Buster