Buttress, Right Edge of West Massif

Approach

From the bus stop on highway go up the road in mountain direction (15-20 minutes). There is only one road which goes to the mountain. Then near the mountain turn left on the path across the forest. It is easy to find because almost everybody use this approach. Then about 5-10 minutes by no technical rocks to the buttress.

Route Description

R0 – R1: The Route starts on one of many ledges of toe – the bottom part of the buttress. Difficulty of the section is I-II.
R1 – R2: Go up to the ridge (III, 8 m), then straight up by the vertical wall (III+, 8 m). After that is easy climb (II) up the buttress. R2 is on the tree. It is surely.
R2 – R3: Up to the buttress by easy rocks (II, 40 m). R3 is on any ledge with tree.
R3 – R4: First up by the middle difficulty rocks (III), then by the vertical cracked corner (III+, 10 m). Further is 10 m to the easy ridge (I). R4 is on the ledge of the ridge. Length of section is 30-40 m.
R4 – R5: Crucial pitch. Further to the end of ridge by vertical wall with crack (IV, 5 m), then small ledge and one more wall (IV, 5 m) before wide ledge. Go left by the ledge, further climb a little by the easy rocks. Then between two trees is way to the summit (20 m). Length of the pitch is 40 m.

Route has many trees and old bolts and pitons. It helps to identify the route and to make anchors.

Essential Gear

- Helmet;
- Set of nuts;
- 10 Quickdraws;
- 5 long Runners;

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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