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Capitol Peak Climber's Log

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OnagerCapitol Peak NE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2015


Climbed 14,130 ft. Capitol Peak located in the Elk Range, known as Colorado's toughest 14er. Started around 2 AM from the Capitol Creek trailhead and hiked on the ditch trail over 7 miles to reach Capitol Lake. At 4:30 AM was within 50 feet of a black bear while hiking in the dark, but luckily the bear ran away. Started climbing the northeast ridge route up the K2/Mt. Daly saddle around 6AM and negotiated my way slowly up towards 13er K2. After summiting K2 at 9:30 AM I downclimbed class 4 rock onto the K2/Capitol Peak saddle. From here I had to cross the infamous "Knife Edge", the crux of the route. The Knife Edge is a exposed rock section with 3000 ft. cliffs on each side. After the knife edge I had to climb class 3/4 exposed rock sections and gain a ridge to reach the summit. Most of this climbing was dangerous, a fall in these sections would be the end. Some of the rock slabs were loose, and climbers above could accidentally kick rocks onto climbers below. I made the summit of Capitol Peak at 1100 AM. Unfortunately the only way down was back the way I came up. Plenty of exposed rock to downclimb. Rocks were plummeting down the sides of the mountain as I slowly made my way back towards K2. It was slow going. In one day, 17 miles completed with 5,300 ft. of elevation gained. The climb took about 15 1/2 hours. Glad to be done with Capitol Peak. It was a beautiful hike and climb but it was dangerous. 14er #32!
Posted Sep 7, 2015 2:29 pm

DanielL14er Finisher!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2014


Long, hard day but one of the best climbs I've done to date! This was my 14er finisher and there couldn't have been a better peak to finish on.
Posted Oct 2, 2014 7:55 pm

Ken DammenFinal 14er  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2014

Ken Dammen

This was my final Colorado 14er. climbed with Dustin Kelly. The most difficult of them all in my opinion.
Posted Sep 27, 2014 3:14 pm

Sarah SimonStandard from Capitol Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2014

Sarah Simon

This peak really is everything you can ask for in a Colorado mountain: power and grace from afar, burly and physical close up. I thought the most technically challenging move was the slabby flake step coming off K2. Knife edge definitely got my attention, but as they say - at least it's solid, unlike most of the rest of the mountain. Stuck just below the ridge leaving the Daly saddle - some down sloping spookiness for sure! Returned via the basin which still held plenty of snow - ax certainly put to use! The stanky cattle made me run for brisket in Aspen afterward - out of revenge I suppose. Nasty, but they're plenty timid if you just tell them to get the $&@! Out of the way! Jaimee rocked it today!
Posted Jul 28, 2014 12:55 am

gnarsifyStandard Route - 1 day push  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008


One day push with my younger brother. Great day overall!
Posted Apr 2, 2014 4:25 pm

mtmanchris83Great time with great friends  Sucess!


Backpacked up and camped near the lake. Despite a little rain early in the morning, we were able to summit. The kinfe edge was a lot of fun but not that difficult, the scetchy part comes after that.
Posted Nov 27, 2013 5:34 pm

MadGrad96Capital  Sucess!


A fun mountain!
Posted Nov 1, 2013 8:11 am

SenadRGreat mountain.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2013


Great mountain, great climb, ridge was sweet!
Posted Aug 5, 2013 8:28 am

dandrewA late start would have been better
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2013


Backpacked in through the rain on Aug. 1st. Started the climb at about 5:30 a.m. on the 2nd. Clouds soon rolled in. Made it to K2 and waited a while before deciding to turn back, not wanting to to do final approach in fog and damp rock. With our luck, of course, the skies began to clear about a half hour after beginning descent. Turned into a nice day after that. Will have to go back.
Posted Aug 4, 2013 2:09 pm

Woodie HopperCapitol Creek, trail run  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2013

Woodie Hopper

Solo. Was able to run most of the way to and from Capitol Lake, climbed before going in to work at Aspen Valley Hospital. I was surprised there were so many people on the route today. K2 was fun: classic view of Capitol. I thought the "Knife Edge" was not very intimidating, but I'd never try it if it were wet. Route finding afterwards was tricky at times.

CO classic for sure!
Posted Aug 3, 2013 9:17 pm

DariaScenic, fun outing  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2013


solo dayhike from Capitol Creek which was a beautiful trailhead. One of the most scenic approaches with the peak. The cows were a nuisance and unexpected!! Gorgeous area, minus the cows. I'm afraid of cows. Scrambling was great and keeps you on your toes. Scenic knife edge. Had the whole peak to myself!
Posted Jul 29, 2013 4:41 pm

HyadventureBig A$$ Day Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2013


Used the Capitol Creek Ditch Trail. Loved the knife edge, hated the loose face below the summit..
Posted Jul 11, 2013 4:26 pm

astroclimberGreat team  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2010


Great team of climbers
Posted Jul 6, 2013 9:37 pm

milanExposed  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012
I climbed this mountain the day before I left Colorado, it was probably the best way to say good bye to the Rockies.
Posted Oct 21, 2012 5:56 pm

I like it on topStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012

I like it on top

A great night at Capitol Lake, leading to a fun and successful summit. Great weather for a climb.
Posted Aug 27, 2012 1:58 pm

PhenomenalWomanAlmost Doesn't Count
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012


A late start and fatigue hampered efforts to reach the summit before the afternoon storms rolled in, leaving us 50 feet from success. The boulder field was excrutiating and I took a tumble on the way back to camp that gashed my hip, bruised my knee, and left my entire foot below the ankle purple....that said - I ABSOLUTELY LOVED THIS PEAK! Without a doubt the most fun I've had on any mountain. The Knife Edge was incredible and I can't wait to go back and try for the summit again.
Posted Aug 18, 2012 5:55 pm

er185005#5  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012


Great solo climb up standard route.
Posted Aug 9, 2012 10:10 pm

cftbqRe: 50 feet below the summit. Then... lightning.


Hi! It was us you talked with just before getting back to the TH on Saturday. Sorry you guys had to turn around. Good luck on another try!
Posted Aug 6, 2012 8:57 am

cftbqthe last hard one  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012


Standard route. Long day. A long-anticipated accomplishment. Fourteener #51.
Posted Aug 5, 2012 11:53 pm

Eleutheros50 feet below the summit. Then... lightning.
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2012


A very poor night's sleep and sick climbing partner led to a late start and slow going. The ridge scrambling was some of the best in CO! So much fun. A stone's throw from the summit we turned back when dark clouds, lightning and rain threatened the summit. I kicked myself the whole way back to the car as the weather cleared... In conclusion, Capitol Peak is worth another climb. I'll be back! Next time I'll stick to the class 4 ridge route instead of dropping into that long, monotonous boulder field.
Posted Aug 4, 2012 8:49 pm

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