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Capitol Peak Climber's Log

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boisedoc3rd try  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 1989


Took three tries and finally summited in the fog. Great approach with the peak in view. Climbing back up to the trailhead at the end is no fun. The scrambling was pretty good
Posted Dec 17, 2006 4:56 pm

ruthschleinCapitol PEak  Sucess!


Even though we climbed Capitol Peak a long while ago, it is clear in my memory as an awesome trip. Nate and I spent the night surrounded by high winds and we were worried that a storm would stop out climb. But, as dawn broke, the sky was clear and we had a fantastic day scrambling around, and looking over the knife ridge. I peed my pants. just kidding. we summited and walked back to the car same day. A great memory to have with such a wonderful friend...
Posted Nov 13, 2006 1:47 am

CO PUMAOne of the Best  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005


One of my favorite mountains. It was my first class 4 climb and still I consider it to be one of the best.
P.S. my friend walked across the knife edge...I got a picture.
Posted Sep 9, 2006 9:26 pm

shanahan96NE Ridge Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


3/14/14- andean-like climb(AD+/D-) with matt, greg and jason. simul-climbed the majority of the route. i thought we weren't going to summit, but we pulled through as a team! hiked out afterwards and got to the car at 2am! a 20-hour day. #60/100 winter

7/14/07- late start with jamie after hiking into camp after dark and arriving at 1:30am. all good with bluebird skies the entire weekend, love camping near capitol lake!

9/3/06- climbed with chicagotransplant and we had an excellent adventure! we stayed on the ridge direct after the knife except for one overhanging spot. it probably went 5.0, maybe low 5th class. i'll come back for this route some other time.

Posted Sep 6, 2006 7:55 pm

chicagotransplantNE Ridge - Direct Variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


Climbed with Shanahan96, we decided to stick to the ridge crest above the knife edge instead of skirting and following the standard route. Great ridge, as solid as the knife with some good low 5th class moves and a couple more knife sections to get the blood pumping. Perfect day, no clouds, not too cold and not to breezy.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 2:27 pm

shknbkeditch trail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006


This was the toughest 14er for me as I did it as a dayhike. The knife edge was pretty much as expected for me. I choose the grab ridge and look for footholds method. A very long day as a dayhike with spectacular views.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 4:10 am

AndinistalocoStandard route


Nice summit and awesome sunrise on the way in. Climbed with good old cp0915, who had the grace not to complain about my lack of speed as I limped pitifully out after slipping and bonking the smack out of my knee on the way up. Moral: you need to watch your step on all terrain, not just the 4th class stuff.
Posted Aug 28, 2006 5:34 am

onlynineK2 - Knife Edge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2006


What a fantastic day! Our (climbed together with 2 other Danish guys) first class 4 climb so we were a little slow. We did the Class 4 traverse from Daly saddle and sort of lost our way on the way back on the Ditch trail, so it was a 16h day form TH and back!
But absolutely a fantastic day and very nice weather except for the last hour or so.
Posted Aug 22, 2006 12:53 pm

MasonMillerbig one  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2005


Did teh 4x4 drive to the car park. Sattled up our gear and headed in for the overnight. Slept at the base of the beast and listened to an intense thunderstorm that we thought would push us away from the summit. By early morning it had cleared up. Made summit a bit late, then hiked all the way back to the car. So tired, had to sleep for an hour before i could drive. Loved it.
Posted Aug 19, 2006 9:37 am

jclementsK2 - Knife Edge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2006


Packed into West Snowmass drainage, below Moon lake, went over top of K2, good weather, lots of people up there.
Posted Aug 10, 2006 5:24 pm

seth@LOKITesty with snow, truly Alpine and stunning  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1994


This was the biggest snow year that I recall. VW size boulders were stll on the icy Lake in late August! Dirk almost surfed a huge rock off near the summit. I got a bit nervous on the snow on K2 on the way down, someone broke out a rope which I was glad for. probably not a big deal dry...Hear about the ski off the South/West Face! holy nut balls...
Posted Jul 25, 2006 5:00 pm

Brad SniderStandard Route--Awesome Climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006

Brad Snider

Great trip started at 2 AM / summit 9:30 w/ shknbke. One of the best 14ers!
Posted Jul 24, 2006 4:00 am

indianhillstedKnife Ridge via West Snowmass Creek  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006
Beautiful day! Little hot, major buggy...forgot the DEET. Had to chase off cows, a little bushwhacking through the tarn. We saw no one until we reached the Daly saddle. Glad we brought the rope in case of storms. Glad I brought the helmet as many people were knocking things loose. Wish I had more water. Glissade down was sweet and nice break on the knees.
Posted Jul 17, 2006 7:32 pm

rockrat2knife ridge


Had to turn back due to bad weather, can't wait to get back to it.
Posted Jun 22, 2006 2:34 pm

spenceinboulderSketchy Weather
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2002


Had to turn around because of sketchy weather. Travesed in across the Boulder field from the N. to avoid the Moon lake approach.
Posted May 9, 2006 3:14 pm

Mountain JimStandard Route  Sucess!

Mountain Jim

Total ascents = 3. Great Mountain !!!
Posted Mar 20, 2006 2:23 am

MariePKnife Edge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2005


Very fun day!
Posted Mar 6, 2006 4:38 pm

markhyamsKnife Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 1996


This is without a doubt, my favorite 14er outing. We did it from West Snowmass Creek, instead of the usual Capitol Creek approach. We camped at some little lakes just below Moon Lake, and it is stunning in there. From there it is a direct climb up to "K2" and the standard route.
Posted Mar 5, 2006 5:49 pm

KieferRoute Climbed: Capitol Creek/Knife Ridge Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!


DAM! One of my two scariest moments on a 14er, both times due to the weather. This was actually my 5th attempt on this mountain. Been to the start of the knife ridge twice. I summited by myself. The morning started out with roughly 9 people. See my trip report.

Very intense. The ridge was actually fairly exciting!
Posted Jan 27, 2006 4:09 pm

climber46Route Climbed: Captol Ditch Approach Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2005


What a beautiful hike! Camped near Capitol Lake. The next morning the weather was terrible. Clouds and drizzle. Nonetheless, it was not so bad not to continue. My friends and I hoped the weather would change for the better by the time we reached K2. We continued up over the notch between Daly and K2 and into the basin with all the snowfields. Once we made our way higher, we almost mistakenly thought Clark Peak was K2! However, my 6th sense and my compass lead us in the correct direction towards K2. Unfortunately, by the time we were within a short scramble of the summit of K2, the weather was still fickle. We decided to give the weather 45 minutes to break or we would turn around. Well, we did not even have to wait that long! In 15 minutes the weather took a quick turn for the worse! It started raining and sleeting and snowing. The boulders became slick and dangerous and we had to proceed slowly on the rocks until we reached the snowfields. The snowfields had much better footing. We also glissaded down some of them. I even got to use the ski pole self arrest technique once. Cold, wet, and tired, I finally felt like I was out of danger's way once down from the Daly-K2 notch. Later on in the afternoon, Capitol reared its head out of the clouds as if to taunt me. By the time I reached my car at the trailhead, the peak was obscured in clouds again, refusing to say goodbye. I will definitely have to return and attempt this peak again!
Posted Nov 26, 2005 6:23 pm

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