Carlsberg Column, III, WI 5

Overview

Carlsberg Column is the classic grade 5 climb in the area. It seems to usually form fat, and the short approach makes it a very popular destination. Due to the fact that it's so short, even if you show up after other parties, you can simply wait in line, and everyone will get a chance to climb.

Like all Beer Routes in Field, there is some avalanche danger on this route, so check the snow conditions.

Getting There

Go to Field and drive to the regular Beer routes parking lot located on the backroad. From there, you need to walk 600 meters back and find a donkey trail heading up through the trees. Close to the correct trail, there is a pullout on the side of the road which is normally plowed. You may be able to park here and save yourself the walk, this pullout is on the right side of the road as you are coming in, at about 1-1.2km from the start.

The trail heads up quickly and steeply, and soon you will get to a short and steep ice step, with more easy ice above it. This can be climbed straight up to access Carlsberg, the top of which is visible up above. Alternatively, most people avoid this ice and traverse right to the base of some cliffs. From there, an exposed 3rd class traverse left will get you to the base of the climb - extreme caution is advised here, as a small slip can be deadly (and there was an unfortunate accident here in 2004). It may be a good idea to put crampons before starting this traverse, as well as a helmet.

Route Description

Once at the base of the route, it is quite straightforward. Pick the line of your choice depending on what's dry, and how difficult you want to make it. With 60 meter ropes, it should be possible to do the route in one long pitch. Otherwise, there is a ledge about 2/3 of the way up, which has a convenient bolted belay on the right. From there, a shorter pitch takes you to the top, where a slung tree provides your belay anchor.

To descend, rappel off the tree. One 60 meter rappel reaches the ground.

Essential Gear

Two 60 meter ropes, regular ice rack.

External Links

Canadian Avalanche Association

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Images

View Carlsberg Column, III, WI 5 Image Gallery - 8 Images