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asmrzRoute Climbed: SE Buttress via the Original Chuck Wilts Route Date Climbed: Sptember 2nd, 2004  Sucess!


Penelope May and I climbed the Original Line on the SE Buttress on September 2nd, 2004. Our British friends Pat and Martin were the only other people on the buttress that day. We followed Peter Croft's "The Good, The Great and The Awesome" topo which in my opinion is the only Guidebook that shows the correct line on the buttress. I know, there are many variations to the original line and most of the topos show them, but in my mind, there is only one line on the SE Buttress and that's the 1945 line by Chuck Wilts and Spencer Austin. Everything else are just variations to avoid crowds and they unfortunately also avoid the best climbing. So if you really want to do this great route, follow the Croft's Guidebook. The route has at least three good and fairly sustained 5.7 pitches of steep face climbing and fair share of enjoyable crack climbing as well. Do it in mid week to avoid the crowds and climb the original route, really the only route there ever was on the SE Buttress.
Posted Sep 19, 2004 6:18 pm

stoneman5Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: July, 1996  Sucess!


Great route, too many people. There were 6-7 groups on the face at once and human feces in a crack prior to the first belay. Yuck.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:30 pm

forjanMountaineers Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006


Started at 7:30am from the Cathedral Lakes parking lot with awagher. We topped out at 9:30am via the Mountaineers Route. Went onto Eichorn Pinnacle and then Echo Ridge/Cockscomb/Unicorn loop.

Route Climbed: SE Buttress
Date Climbed: September 5, 2004

Climbed the SE Buttress with Steven Sauter. We had fantastic weather. Not a single cloud in the deep, blue sky of Tuolumne. We pretty much followed the classic route (route "A" on SuperTopo). Steve led the first pitch to the "half-alive" pine tree. I led the 2nd pitch. Steve led about 1/2 of the 3rd pitch and set belay on the alcove. I ask him why he didn't continue further and he said the altitude was tired him down. So, I led the rest of the pitches to the summit (4 pitches from alcove to summit). I did not find the chimney pitch to be that difficult. Instead, the crux for me was the 5.6 crack about 20 feet below the summit (just before topping out on the class 4 summit blocks). Best views so far from any summit I've been on. Because several parties bottle necked just before the chimney (crowded day on the SE Buttress), we had to wait in line. I topped out at 4:45pm. I belayed Steve up and we both enjoyed the summit by 5:15pm. Then, we downclimbed the 15-foot class 4 crack and descended via the Mountaineers Route. All in all, beautiful views from this route but way too crowded with other climbing parties.
Posted Sep 7, 2004 7:20 pm

MelbaToastRoute Climbed: Made up our own Date Climbed: August 21, 2004  Sucess!


There were several groups ahead of us on the rock when we got there so we climbed around them on some faces. It got really cold and windy two pitches from the summit so we hurried up and hiked down the back. A very nice, easy climb, beautiful views, and a satisfying day. It would probably be best to do it late in the day or in the middle of the week, though!
Posted Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm

Gail JRoute Climbed: South East Buttress Date Climbed: Sept. 12, 1999  Sucess!

Gail J

Posted Aug 15, 2004 1:35 pm

ocelotRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: July 22, 2004  Sucess!


We mixed and matched a route just west of the classic SE Buttress. Some nice lines @ 5.5 - 5.7. 3 man team, 5.5 pitches on a 60M rope. Fun.
Posted Jul 27, 2004 5:22 pm

poorboy44Route Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 2004  Sucess!


This route is way crowded! The descent is kind of weird, we went all the way left to the notch with Eichorn, and then back across.

I noticed someone removed the rappel anchor from the summit.
Posted Jul 23, 2004 2:42 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 22, 2004  Sucess!


Fun climb. Now to go back and do the SE Buttress.
Posted Jun 22, 2004 10:47 pm

ShaaseRoute Climbed: SE buttress Date Climbed: 06/20/2004  Sucess!


Simul climbed much of lower butress toping out a little over a 2 hours. Clear skiis and nice people on the route.
Posted Jun 22, 2004 12:53 pm

Sam MillsRoute Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 18, 2004  Sucess!

Sam Mills

This time roped up with SPer Matthew Holliman.
Posted Jun 20, 2004 12:15 pm

bobpickeringRoute Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 13, 2004  Sucess!


Solo from the toe of the buttress to the summit in 12:52. My 40th time on this route.
Posted Jun 14, 2004 12:59 am

MishaRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: June 6, 2004  Sucess!


Nice route, much easier than anticipated. To spice things up a bit Etsuko and I climbed the 5.7 variation to the right of the Chimney. Fun! However, think again if you want to climb this route on a warm sunny summer weekend day. Aside from us there were probably 20 people on the route. Even though there are variations, we all bottlenecked below the summit and ended up waiting for hours before we could top out. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable and incredibly serene. We climbed the route in 5 pitches (stretched first two pitches to 210' each), with me leading pitches #1 (5.5-5.6), #3 (5.7 variation) and #4 (5.5?); and Etsuko leading #2 (5.6) and #5 (to the summit, 5.6)

I lost one of my yellow Aliens somewhere on the route (whoever finds it, ENJOY), and found a #2 Camalot. Go figure :)
Posted Jun 8, 2004 10:05 pm

RomainRoute Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 2, 2004  Sucess!


Great day of climbing the Southeast Buttress with Alberto Alesina; we did it in 6 pitches, leading 3 each. The descent required hiking all the way to the base of Eichorn due to snow in the bowl below the summit. One other party climbing at the same time and same speed as us (3 forest service employees) and 2 parties behind us.

This was a warmup for our unsuccessful attempt on the Fishhook Arete of Mount Russell.
Posted Jun 8, 2004 3:18 pm

balajisvRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: Oct 18 2003  Sucess!


First time for me (a novice) with a bunch of very experienced climbers. Was good fun.
Posted May 27, 2004 1:39 am

coloradoiceclimberRoute Climbed: SE Butress Date Climbed: September 2, 2002
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2003


Really fun climb!! That is unless you were the pair of dunses that starteed up late and disregarded the storm that was brewing and ended up dumping on them while on route!! It was pretty cool to straddle the summit! I almost went flying while I was leading the pitch through the chimny when a rescue choper came out of nowhere at our same elevation and seemed as though it was 75 feet away!! Good times with by boy CD!!
Posted Apr 11, 2004 10:13 am

rolkamonRoute Climbed: South East Butress Date Climbed: July 4, 03  Sucess!


Did this with Howard Sebold. Tooks the 5.7 line. Wonderful aestheic climb. Got spooked off the summit by building clouds. Got lapped on the descent by a soloist, Steve Seats. He climbinged the thing in 20 minutes compared to our 4 hours.
Posted Mar 19, 2004 2:10 pm

birdheadRoute Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!


Left Chuck at the last notch before the class 4 section at the summit block. He was within shouting distance and begged me to come down. One of the best summits I've been on. Beautiful!
Posted Feb 4, 2004 1:17 am

Sam MillsRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: September 2003  Sucess!

Sam Mills

This was peak 7 of a seven peak day with Bob Burd. We soloed this 5.6 route. Plenty of hand holds on great granite.
Posted Jan 29, 2004 6:15 pm

RobRoute Climbed: SE Butress Date Climbed: 1992  Sucess!


(solo ascent) Fun,Great view.
Posted Jan 21, 2004 7:17 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: 1977  Sucess!
I remember being the only party on the peak on a perfect summer Saturday....
Posted Jan 20, 2004 5:59 pm

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