Cathedral Rocks/Spires Climber's Log
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|Tom Fralich||Multiple Routes |
Date Climbed: May 19, 2007
|Middle Catedral Rock, East Buttress (IV 5.9 A0, 11 pitches) -- May 19, 2007 -- First long route in Yosemite, climbed with my roommate from undergrad, Eric Aldenhoff. Left the car at 6AM, started climbing at 6:30AM, topped out at 3PM. Great route with really sustained climbing and lots of interesting pitches. I led pitches 1,2,5,8,9. The descent must be one of the 50 Worst Descents of North America. |
Higher Cathedral Spire, Regular Route (III 5.9, 5 pitches) -- May 24, 2007 -- Climbed with Eric Aldenhoff, starting from the car at around 7:30AM. The approach took about 1 hr. The climbing on the route was fun, but a bit chossy. I led pitches 1,3,5. The summit was bigger than expected and made a nice lunch spot. We were back at the car by 4PM.
Middle Cathedral Rock, Central Pillar of Frenzy (III 5.9, 5 pitches) -- May 25, 2007 -- Climbed yet again with Eric Aldenhoff on our 2007 trip to Yosemite. The climbing was fantastic. Eric led pitches 1,3,5 and I led the others, including the awesome 5.9 finger crack on pitch 2. The rappels went really easily using the rap line to the left of the route. We started at around 8AM and were back to the car by 3PM.
Middle Cathedral Rock, Kor-Beck (III 5.9, 6 pitches) -- October 7, 2007 -- Climbed this with MichaelJ as our first long route together in Yosemite. It was really cold in the morning, so we started late (around 11AM). I was still a bit chilly at the belays, but the climbing was strenuous enough to keep the blood flowing. Fun climbing, a bit awkward in sections. I led pitches 1,3,5.
Higher Cathedral Rock, Braille Book (III 5.8, 6 pitches) -- October 3, 2008 -- Mike Wright and I climbed this route on our second day in the Valley. The weather was pretty unsettled all day, but we managed to get it done before the rain came. Really strenuous and sustained climbing on this one. I found it to be more strenuous than Kor-Beck. I led pitches 1,3,5.
|Posted May 20, 2007 12:28 am|
|mow10||E buttress of middle |
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2003
|Yosemite at its best. Great rock, great pro. Lots of shorter routes I have said "I wish it went on like this for another 1000 feet..." - this climb does.|
|Posted Mar 17, 2007 7:13 am|
|kaos14||Route Climbed Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route |
Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2006
|With Darko, Warren and Tom.|
Amazingly our party of four ended up in a drag race to the base of the route with... another party of four. Darko managed to find the start and we got on first. The only rough patch was a rope snag after Darko led the first pitch. Started climbing at 9am and topped out at 1:15ish. Beautiful fall weather and awesome views of the fall folliage.
|Posted Oct 23, 2006 6:08 pm|
|rpc||Few lines |
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2006
|Braille Book. An OK route - like steep cobblestone road. Don't think there was much crack climbing on it.|
Climbed a few lines on MCR over extended Memorial Day Wknd.
Central Pillar Of Frenzy. BEAUTIFUL line and gorgeous climbing!
East Butt of MCR. Very nice. Classic indeed. Sustained at 5.7-5.8. Aided Harding ladder.
Kor-Beck (1st 6 pitches). Last dihedral pitch was hard. Hung on it couple times. Rest of route is nice - not stellar but nice.
|Posted Jun 29, 2006 4:55 pm|
|Rileywyna||Route Climbed: Reg route on Higher Cathedral Spire & Central Pillar of Frenzy. Date Climbed: May 2001|
|Climbed Higher with my great partner Thad. We did the off route variation that take the crack stright up from the tree at the top of the first pitch. Had some of the nicest moves I have ever done on lead. An overhanging, stemming, flake problem. Took my first fall of my climbing career on the next pitch trying to free another off route pitch to the right of the chimeny. Love this climb.|
Central pillar was good to. Some hard bits/pitchs on this climb.
|Posted Dec 19, 2005 7:51 am|
|tdoughty||Route Climbed: Many|
|N. Butress of MCR over 2 days, Regular routes on both Higher and Lower Spires (desend Spires Gully) E. Butress of MCR (descend Catwalk), and the Overhang Bypass route on LCR (descend Gunsight).|
|Posted Oct 16, 2005 12:28 pm|
|salad||Route Climbed: East Butt Date Climbed: 1997ish|
|Great climb, badly dehydrated as my hydration system leaked out belaying on pitch 2. did the 10a fifty crowded variation.|
|Posted Aug 11, 2005 3:49 pm|
|Matthew Holliman||Route Climbed: NW Buttress of MCR Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2005|
|Like Bob said. This was an enjoyable day--Gunsight was spicy, and I led my first pitch ever on MCR's NW Buttress. Suffice it to say, that was a learning experience. I have a much better understanding of the meaning of "rope drag" now. :-)|
|Posted May 25, 2005 1:02 am|
|Brian Frederick||Route Climbed: East Butress, middle cathedral Date Climbed: Late 80's|
|Excellent Route! Loved the cracks. Almost had it to ourselves, and we thought we were moving well until we got passed near the top by two Italians in jumpsuits who flew by like we were standing still... made me wish I knew how to climb.|
|Posted May 17, 2005 1:01 am|
|Bob Burd||Route Climbed: NW Buttress of MCR Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2005|
|Toured the Cathedral Rocks with Matthew, hitting the summits of Lower, Middle, and Higher Cathedral Rocks, up via Gunsight and the NW Buttress of Middle, then down Spires Gully. Trip Report|
|Posted May 1, 2005 1:11 pm|
|stoneman5||Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: May, 1998|
|First five only. Great climbing|
|Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:35 pm|
|stoneman5||Route Climbed: East Buttress of Middle Date Climbed: June 1996|
|Wonderful climb. Noone else on the route.|
|Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:34 pm|
|mekwise||Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: August 2003|
|Sort of a summit I supposed. We finished the climb. We climbed the first five pitches, which is the normal route now. I think originally the route went further but the climbing on the first five pitches is the best. Absolutely great climb.|
|Posted Sep 6, 2004 11:56 am|
|AlexeyD||Route Climbed: Higher Cathedral Spire/Regular Route (5.9) Date Climbed: August 2002|
|Despite a late start, all 5 of us made it to the top...unfortunately, it wasn't possible with jugging|
|Posted Jul 26, 2004 1:41 pm|
|Deb||Route Climbed: Gunsight Date Climbed: 22 November 2003|
|Quite chilly outside but we warmed up rather nicely scrambling to the summit for a beautiful view of El Cap. Didn't care too much for the down-climbing, not my strength; glad is wasn't any wetter or colder.|
Another lovely memory for the Rolodex!
|Posted Jan 25, 2004 10:54 pm|
|Rob||Route Climbed: E Butress,Middle Cath. rock 5.10c Date Climbed: 1994|
|Also have climbed the Higher C. Spire .R.R.|
Higher C. Rock, Braille Book
Middle C. CPF
|Posted Jan 18, 2004 4:35 am|
|Dave Dinnell||Route Climbed: Reg. Rt. Higher Spire, Reg. Rt. Lower Spire, E. Butt. Mid. Cath. Date Climbed: July 1987|
|Climbed Reg. Rt. on higher spire 2x in one week. Fun Rt. with group of friends-social climbing! Climbed East Buttress of Middle Cath. Rock 7/87 with Hugh Sakols; Climbed Reg. Rt. on Lower Spire with Bill Nolan 10/93.|
|Posted Jan 10, 2004 12:06 am|
|Dave Daly||Route Climbed: Gunsight Date Climbed: 22 Nov 2003|
|Hiked up to the top of the Gunsight to access the summit of Lower Cathedral. Daytime temp was 38. Windchill factor and no sun in the Gunsight made it considerably less. Very little ice encountered. Had a great day with a great friend.|
|Posted Nov 23, 2003 11:10 pm|
|Dave Daly||Route Climbed: NW Face of Middle Cathedral (III, 5.7). Date Climbed: 2 Nov 2002|
|Located this ancient Steve Roper route just past the top of the Gunsight, immediately to the left. Bob Burd, Michele Beaty and myself sought out where the "mystery arrrow" pointed to, as illustrated in the Don Reid guide. At the time, we were not sure of where the first pitch began so we forged out own variation. Our first pitch, 'The Mooch Traverse' (5.7), wandered 200 feet right from the original 1st pitch start and up to a pine tree (a FULL 60 meters!!). There, we found super ancient slings. The rest was fairly obvious. Not a bad route. Good rock quality and an outstanding view of Leaning Tower! In an earlier summit log post by Bob Burd, he mentioned we did the NW Buttress. Again, we actually did the NW Face. The NW Buttress is about 300 yards to the right of this route and is rated 5.6. For those that like obscurity, I highly recommend the NW Face.|
|Posted Oct 31, 2003 2:18 am|
|darinchadwick||Route Climbed: DNB of Middle Cathedral, Gunsight. Date Climbed: summer 1995|
|Gunsight: Took a bunch of kids up for a day of adventure and a little rope work. Got to the top of the Gunsight, but not any real summits. Still, the kids got a good thrashing, and so it was fun for them.|
DNB: The Cathedrals are perfect for free climbing. Any steeper, and it would be aid, less steep, and it would be too easy. Well, maybe. To climb in Yosemite and only do short routes is horrible. With only one day off a week from work, this had been my diet. Finally, I had a few free days between one job and the next, so a friend and I decided to try the DNB because it was in the shade most of the day, and it didn't seem too hard for our modest ability. We didn't ask around from other climbers, just looked at the guidebook topo, and decided it looked good. Besides, if Charlie Fowler had free soloed it, how hard could it be?
The crux was a non-issue, a little French free action, and we moved on. Then came the wandering face climbing, with stout run-outs. There was chalk and fixed gear all over the place, with no clear or safe way to continue that was readily apparant. In shame and disgust we rappelled off.
It turns out that DNB doesn't mean Direct North Buttress. Instead, it means Do Not Bother. So, this summer, we plan to free Astroman on Washington Column. It isn't as many pitches, and hey, Peter Croft AND Dean Potter have free soloed it, so.... how hard can it be?
|Posted May 21, 2003 7:50 am|