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kommishNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2008

kommish

Great views, was a wonderful sunrise.
Posted Jan 31, 2008 6:46 pm

HotfeetStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008

Hotfeet

A very long and worthwhiole climb. Beautiful mountain. Very windy.
Posted Jan 21, 2008 8:44 pm

leftyNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2008

lefty

This was a very enjoyable and relatively easy climb. The slope is much less steep than Cotopaxi, except near the top. It was a clear and windless night with nice snow conditons. We had to downclimb into the Bergshrund near the top and use two tools to climb back out of it on the way down. Some groups managed to get around it on the left side.
Posted Jan 16, 2008 1:16 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2005

Boriss Andean

Edgar and I started climbing up at midnight from the refuge. Ice/snow conditions were good, even though we fell inside a couple of small snow covered cravasses at the base of the summit:-).

Summited few minutes after sunrise, The view was great.
Posted Sep 21, 2007 12:55 am

Bill562Cayambe normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007

Bill562

Climbed with Haliku and Axe. This climb was much easier than slogging up Coto in bad weather. Ironically, good weather on Cayambe is much more rare than on Coto. A good boot track was present most of the way. The crux was the 70 deg snow bridge across the bergshrund.

This climb made it five for five peaks in Ecuador for our team on this trip.
Posted Jul 13, 2007 5:40 pm

HalikuNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007

Haliku

What a beautiful day; blue sky and sunny with light winds for most of the climb! Axe, Bill562 and I climbed with Guide Freddy Ramirez of Sierra Nevada. There is still some snow on the road so we had to carry gear to the hut.
Posted Jul 13, 2007 9:47 am

bolojmSummited via normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2005

bolojm

We fought through an ice storm on the way up...totally coated in ice, but we made it! The clouds cleared and the sun came out for the way down. Forgot to put sunscreen on the underside of my nose...ouch! It was a great day, not as much trouble at nearly 19,000' as I thought I would have. No Diamox, just Gingko, Cytomax, luck and determination even though I felt nauseous at 18,000'.
Posted Jun 19, 2007 5:14 am

maraudersClimbed Normal Route: Jan 12, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2007

marauders

The mountain was in perfect condition. We left at midnight and summited in 7 hours under a blanket of stars. During the last 30 minutes the sun rose and the winds kicked up to 40mph with moist clouds that covered us in a sheet of ice.

We crossed over 8 cravesses but they were very narrow and safe to cross. The bergschrund at the top also had a large, secure snow bridge that made for very easy crossing. I can't imagine this mountain could have been in much better conditions. We were fortunate!

We didn't have a guide, so the clear night was mandatory for safe route finding. There is no boot track on Cayambe so good route finding or a guide is necessary. The hut is easily the best in Ecuador. It seems like a small resort compared to the others.
Posted Jan 23, 2007 6:07 pm

monealNormal route
Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2007

moneal

Got blown off the mountain by high winds (40-50 mph sustained with higher gusts). Turned around shortly after the glacier started. Too bad cause I felt great
Posted Jan 21, 2007 3:04 pm

tjbst47normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2007

tjbst47

Hired a guide (The Explorer, Riena Victoria, Mariscal) after my partner left. Nice guy, but I question his techniques. Tried to short rope me (3 m) which I didnt allow, and he didnt carry any pro and anchor building materials. Anyhow, he knew the route well and there is no path in the snow like Coto and Chimbo. Easy summit after climbing Chimbo. 5.5 hours from the hut. The real story is how the brakes when out on the jeep on the way down the mountain. Rolled the jeep onto the roof. Scary, but fortunately no one was hurt.
Posted Jan 16, 2007 12:08 am

LCWeird weather  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2006

LC

Started out at midnight after a very long and sleepless night. Perfect snow conditions on the ascent. Reached the summit around 9am. Beautiful view. The descent was pretty horrible. It must have been 95 degrees and it was snowing! Snow was very soft on the descent.
Posted Jan 11, 2007 5:12 am

OutdoorpartnerAvalanche danger
Date Climbed: Dec 7, 2006

Outdoorpartner

About a third of the way, we found 3 feet of unconsolidated snow on top of glacier ice. We turned around due to avalance danger. We saw avalanches the next morning. Very dangerous conditions!
Posted Dec 16, 2006 12:57 pm

BalletBoyRuta Normal - Oct. 25th, 2006  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 25, 2006

BalletBoy

A beautiful starry night guided myself and Woodie Hopper to the Summit of this beautiful mountain for the first of our "Big Three" climbs in Ecuador. The windy summit made it cold but otherwise a perfect day with impressive views. The refugio is the nicest in all of Ecuador. Don't miss out on climbing this mountain!
Posted Nov 5, 2006 8:57 pm

Woodie HopperRuta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 25, 2006

Woodie Hopper

Climbed with Nord Sandstrom. We had beautiful weather and snow conditions, but a lot of wind near and on the top. We had stunning views of Antisana, Cotopaxi, the Ilinizas and Chimborazo. We even watched El Reventador erupt briefly while on the summit- awesome!
Posted Oct 25, 2006 7:49 pm

peakrat76Ruta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 14, 1991

peakrat76

A big, dangerous mountain with plenty of crevasses and objective danger. No crowds here in 91. A much more interesting and wild mountain than Cotopaxi. Summit reached in fog. (Our van almost slid off of the steep approach road below the hut on our departure in a wild rain storm!) The first peak on a memorable expedition.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 10:33 pm

n8jojohnsonWhited Out
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2006

n8jojohnson

Started out with a beautiful, calm, crystal-clear night. Arrived at the toe of the glacier and discovered that half of our gear we cached had been jacked. Half the group turned around while 3 of us made our bid. A storm rolled in and before we knew it, we were in complete white-out. Reached the Bergshrund and hunkered down until day-break to see if the storm would give; unfortunately, we had to call 18,500' our high point.
Posted Jul 30, 2006 3:43 pm

carolina.altamiranoNormal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2005

carolina.altamirano

It was a great climb because all the crevasses were covered by compacted snow. We started climbing at 2.00 am from a campament right in front of the refuge, we reached the summit ar 7.00 am. The descent was fine too.
Posted Mar 7, 2006 2:51 pm

LigaNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2006

Liga

Nice snow climb. We had a little too much smell of sulphur last few hundred meters below the summit. I was not sure whether to blame poor acclimatization or sulphur for my headache :) Views from the summit where amazing - Antisana, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo...
Posted Feb 27, 2006 3:43 pm

emilieNormal Route
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2006

emilie

We were climbing by moonlight and it was freaking cold but beautiful. I wasn't feeling acclimatized though so I turned around quite early, 16,600ft, to save my energy for Cotopaxi.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 3:21 pm

Uwe KrausRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 10th of January 1999  Sucess!

Uwe Kraus

1999 I visited Ecuador for the second time. Our intention was to climb Cayambe and Chimorazo. After we had climbed several mountains to acclimatise (among others Illiniza Norte and Imbabura) we started to climb Volcán Cayambe. Therefore we had hired a guide in Quito.



In my opinion Volcán Cayambe is one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador. It is a challenging climb in wonderful glacial scenery. However, the weather is mostly unpredictable there and one has to have much luck to summit. As we were told afterwards 13 groups of climbers tried to climb Volcán Cayambe before us that year and couldn’t summit because of bad weather. We were the first group in that season reaching the summit.



We reached the summit on 10th of January 1999.











The entire report and more information as well as pictures you will find at http://members.aol.com/UweKraus3/site18_e.htm



Posted Dec 27, 2005 7:59 am

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