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Cayambe
Mountain/Rock

Cayambe

 
Cayambe

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Ecuador, South America

Lat/Lon: 0.03330°N / 77.9833°W

Object Title: Cayambe

Elevation: 18996 ft / 5790 m

 

Page By: mdostby

Created/Edited: Mar 28, 2001 / Feb 13, 2006

Object ID: 150297

Hits: 38273 

Page Score: 90.8%  - 34 Votes 

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Overview

Cayambe is a massive glaciated extinct volcano located 65km northeast of Quito. It is both Ecuador's third highest peak and the third highest peak in the America's north of the Equator. It also has the distinction of being the highest point on the Earth's surface through which the Equator directly passes. Although technically not real difficult it is rather dangerous due to very active glaciers, crevasses and avalanches.

Getting There

From Quito, Ecuador's capitol city, travel north to the town of Cayambe. Many buses travel this route daily. From the town of Cayambe it is 25km to the refuge located at 4,600m on the southwest flanks of the mountain. There are no buses and hitch-hiking is difficult. A truck or 4WD can be hired in the central square in Cayambe for a lift to the refuge for about $20-25 US dollars. They will drop you off about 2km below the refuge. All the drivers know the route.

Red Tape

No fees for climbing. As of March 2002 there is a $16 US dollar plus tax (aprox 15%) nightly fee for staying at the refuge. The refuge has a permanent guardian, running water, gas stove and cooking facility, and toilets.

When To Climb

Snowstorms and high winds are more frequent on Cayambe than on many other peaks in Ecuador. It can be climbed year round although October through January is said to be the best period.

Camping

Camping is allowed.

Mountain Conditions

In talking with different local and international guides I've found that the conditions on this mountain change very rapidly. The Hermoso Glacier is very active with many seracs and is extremely crevassed, which if hidden by fresh snow, are dangerous. The upper glacier is constantly changing so you need to pick your way through the crevasse field. The crevasses are large deep and obvious. Route finding around the gaping bergschrund will be necessary.

Photos


Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-6 of 6    
mdostbyUntitled Comment

mdostby

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the adddition to the Caymabe page.





Mike
Posted Aug 19, 2002 8:59 pm
El Tigre ValderramaUntitled Comment

El Tigre Valderrama

Hasn't voted

Visit the Ecuador’s Map Grid System to the check the maps you may need when climbing here. This grid follows the Instituto Geografico Militar grid system. The sheet for Cayambe is CT OII E3
Posted Aug 19, 2002 9:11 pm
carolina.altamiranoMountain conditions

carolina.altamirano

Hasn't voted

We tried to climb Cayambe on March 4 and 5, it is very icy, crevasses are open, there is barely any snow, we did it until "picos jarrin" (5000 m). Conditions change rapidly. On november/2005 it was covered by compacted snow, so the climbing was easier, we did it in 5 hours.
Posted Mar 7, 2006 1:56 pm
Cdn66November 2013: Hut under renovation

Hasn't voted

As of November 2013, the refuge is being renovated. One of the kitchens had been torn out and the place was taken over by the workers. Not sure if climbers can sleep there until the renos are finished. Best to check ahead.
Posted Nov 29, 2013 5:20 pm
denali36Caution against using Safari Tours or Condor Trekking

Hasn't voted

Safari Tours, which is one of the outfitters offering guided climbs on Cayambe, employs unqualified, inexperienced amateur guides with no business leading climbing expeditions. Our itinerary included a certified English-speaking mountain guide for Cayambe and Cotopaxi, which Safari Tours failed to provide. Our guide, Christian, who worked for Condor Trekking, sub-contracted by Safari Tours, spoke no English and proved dangerously reckless by failing to adhere to basic mountain safety protocol (i.e. did not employ snow/ice anchors on steep glacial terrain). Moreover, he was uncommunicative (even in Spanish), unapproachable, and blatantly rude. The owner of Safari Tours, Eduardo seemed unwilling/unable to address the situation in any meaningful way. As such, anyone considering climbing in the Ecuadorean Andes should avoid Safari Tours and Condor Trekking on safety grounds, no matter how competitive their price may be. Your life is not worth it.
Posted Jan 10, 2015 2:59 pm
bohler.erin@gmail.comSecond on the Beware Condor Trekk

Hasn't voted

There are a couple out there with similar names, so I'll give the link of the one to avoid. http://about.me/condortrekk We had two guides and they were both questionable. One told us not to drink water so that we "wouldn't sweat or go to the bathroom", this advice was offered when climbing up to 19,300ft on Cotopaxi, and they both left clients alone in the dark on the hike up because they could not keep up. They later denied having ditched anyone. Both guides were uncommunicative and plainly argumentative. Ecuador needs to improve certification and therefore safety. In 2013, a Canadian woman died with Condor Trekk, but I was not aware of that until after I'd already hiked with them. Careful when choosing a guide, price is not always indicative of quality.
Posted Jan 13, 2015 11:32 pm

Viewing: 1-6 of 6    

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