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Celebration Wall, 5.6-5.9
Mountain/Rock

Celebration Wall, 5.6-5.9

 
Celebration Wall, 5.6-5.9

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.10193°N / 115.50367°W

Object Title: Celebration Wall, 5.6-5.9

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Apr 11, 2012 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 784996

Hits: 712 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Coltrane, 5.9
 

Celebration Wall is a nicely varnished lower canyon wall located at the origin of Oak Creek Canyon, west of Eagle Wall. It is home to a soon to be 5.9 classic, Coltrane. I say soon to be even though Joanne and Jorge Urioste established this route in 1979. It has just now been retro-bolted (2012) with modern fixed gear. Due to the slabby run out nature of the route relying on the older fixed gear, few have climbed it during the past two decades. I imagine, due to its ease in grade and length, it will see much more traffic from this point forward. The other three established routes on this wall (2012) were also put up in the 70’s, all at lower grades than Coltrane. The rock is surprisingly solid on this last wall before you exit the canyon tempting one to consider an on-sight solo of some of these lower grade routes. This section of Oak Creek Canyon is second to none in terms of beauty at Red Rock. You will encounter some of the larger Ponderosa Pines in all of Red Rock in this section of the canyon.
 
Tarantula
 

Park at the Oak Creek trail head. Hike back to the trail below Solar Slab. Continue as it dumps you into the canyon floor. Follow the right (north) fork of the canyon, beyond Eagle Wall, to almost the very origin of the canyon. The largest slab waterfall in the canyon is located below the last wall before you turn right and hit the back (west) summit ridge of Rainbow Mountain. This is a well varnished wall with two large roof/dihedrals above and is named Celebration Wall. Coltrane pretty much runs up the center of this wall and exits left under the second of those dihedrals/roofs. Continue to the base of the waterfall and turn right using the slab to avoid the brush. Scramble up to the high point of the brush and scree. Coltrane starts via three bolts between two arches. The other routes are all to the right of Coltrane.

Route Description(s)

Routes are Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Coltrane-5 Pitches- 5.9/
  • Handren’s guide book has Coltrane listed as five pitches, however the 5th pitch can typically be soloed to the exit ramp. The first four pitches are long, mostly face and slab climbing, on solid rock. Handren has the first pitch at 140’, although it is closer to 120’. The next three pitches however are the approximated 165’ or more. The climbing is relatively easy for the grade with the exception of a crux slab move or two during the first pitch. Dow

  • Easter Egg- 300’- 5.6/

  • Underhanging Overhang- 1200’- 5.7/

  • Catwalk- 1200’- 5.6+/
  • External Links

  • Over 300 routes detailed from first hand successful accounts at Red Rock Canyon. GET OFF THE TOURIST ROUTES and explore!
  • Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM

  • Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association

  • Images

    Coltrane, 5.9