Cerro Torre Tower is an aesthetic piece of rock home to a fairly good roof climb, 80 Proof Roof (5.10b) (1989). Most are more than likely climbing Cerro Torre because they found Comic Book, whose name sake is one of the better 5.10a’s in the park. Cerro Torre’s Southwest Face route (5.8) (1975) is a great introduction to off-width, which Jtree is short on. There is only one other published route on the tower (2013), Fitzroy Was Here (5.10b), but they all get stars in Miramontes guide. There is a slung rap all three routes share, but you can walk off a gully to the east as well.
Park at the first pull out on the right past Keys Ranch Road as you head north bound on Bighorn Pass road from Intersection Rock. Look for the marked climbing trail. Follow it for approximately a mile past a feature named the Sphinx (looks likes its namesake) on the left. Continue past the Comic Book wall which is the first canyon beyond the Sphinx. Ignore Miramontes directions in his new guide which tell you to take the last canyon and instead circumvent all the features to the south, turning left (east) into open desert. Look for the south facing aspect of Cerro Torre high up on the hill on your left. Go past it just a tad and turn left up the hill, boulder hopping to its base.
Route Description(s)Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall
- Fitzroy Was Here- 5.10b/*
- Southwest Face- 5.8/* This is a good 5.8 pitch, if for no other reason, that it offers a solid section of moderate off-width which is not that common in Jtree compared to the amount of routes available. Start out in the obvious wide crack, utilizing several arm bars and eventually pull out of the bulge onto much quicker ground. Most of your medium pieces will protect the OW just fine. There is a slung rap at the top (2013). Dow
- 80 Proof Roof- 5.10b/** Excellent, mostly bolted route through a fun roof.