Chamlang

Overview

Chamlang is a spectacular peak situated in the remote Hongu Valley of Eastern Nepal. In the Sherpa Language Chamlang mean "big bird flapping wings" due to the shape of the mountain. The peak lies about 16km southwest of Makalu and has three majors summits: main (7319m), east (7235m) and central (7180m). 

Chamlang in evening light...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The mountain dominates the horizon to the northeast when seen from Mera Peak.

Himalayan Twilight

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chamlang is not a popular peak by any means. I found a few climbing reports (see "External Links") on the Internet but information is far and few in between.

Known Ascents

Main Summit

1962 Japanese Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido via the South Ridge. First ascent

1986 Second ascent via the West Ridge. Japanese expedition

1987 Korean-Nepalese expedition via the South Ridge

1990 German expedition. First ascent of NW-Face in combination with W-Face and first ascent in alpine style

1991 First British ascent via the South Ridge

2015 Spainish expedition via the West Ridge
2019 Czech expedition via new and direct line (dubbed "UFO Line") of NW-Face in alpine style (awarded the 2020 Piolet d'Or)

2021 French expedition via a new line up the N-Face.

 

Other Summits

1981 Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott climbed a minor summit (7010m) via the north face (*)

1984 Doug Scott and his party made a east to central summits traversal

1988 East Summit via the north face. Dutch women expedition

 

These are all I can find. PM me if you know any other.

 

(*) An interesting tidbit about this expedition: Messner and Scott claimed to have seen some UFO object during the climb

 

Getting There

Virtually all climbers start the walk-in from Lukla. To get to Lukla, you can catch a mountain flight from Kathmandu. Flight cancellation is pretty common so it's wise to schedule some buffer days (both ways).

 

From Lukla to the Chamlang Base Camp, follow the route to Mera Peak up to the Mera La. There are two routes:

 

Lukla (2860m) - Puiya (2796m)  - Pangum (2846m) - Narjing Dingma (2700m) - Chalem Kharka (3440m) - Khola Kharka (4120m) - Kote (3500m) - Tangnag (4140m, 2 nights) - Khare (4940m, 2-3 nights) - Mera La - BC

 

-OR-

 

Lukla - Chutanga (3400m, 2 nights) - Tuli Kharka (4400m) - Kote - Tangnag (2 nights) - Khare (2-3 nights) - Mera La - BC

 

The first option is longer but allows more gradual acclimisation while the second option involves a very steep ascent of the Zatra La (4600m) on the 3rd day.

Zatra La 

Red Tape

You'll need a climbing permit for the peak and trekking permit for the walk-in.

 

Climbing royalty for foreigners: $500 for spring, $250 for fall and $125 for winter/summer.

When to Climb

Spring (March-May) or Fall (Sept-Nov)

Camping

There are many tea houses along the way from Lukla to Khare. However most big groups (mostly to Mera Peak) choose to sleep in tents and use facilities provided by the tea houses.

 

I also heard (from a lodge owner in Khare) there are now two simple lodges in the Hongu Valley but I can't verify that myself.

 

External Links

Big Bird Flapping Wings - Andrew Pollard - About the first British ascent in 1991

 

British Chamlang North Face Expedition 2012 - A report on an unsuccessful attempt on the North Face

 

Windy in Hongu - Andy Houseman - A blog post on the 2012 British Expedition

 

The Climb of Mount Chamlang - The Himalayan Journal - An article about the first ascent of the mountain

 

Trip report of the 1989 Dutch Expedition (in Dutch)  and photos. Also a book has been written on the climb by one of the summitters, Myra de Rooy.

 

Zdenek Hak and Marek Holecek complete the first ascent of Chamlang's northwest face (2019)

 

Interview with Charles Duvouloz: A New Route On Chamlang (2021)

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Stefan Köhler - Sep 25, 2019 3:07 pm - Hasn't voted

Chamlang Peak Nepal 7319m (Main Summit)

Correcctions and Addistions: Data´s to 1., 2. and 3. th ascent are correct. 4.th ascent is first ascent of NW-Face in combination with W-Face and first ascent in alpine style by German Expedition 5.th ascent ist correct 6. th ascent is a Spain Expedition in 2015 via W-Ridge 7. th ascent is a Czech Expedition in 2019 via new and direct line of NW-Face in alpine style Stefan Köhler, Germany

kunlun - Jun 20, 2022 5:22 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Chamlang Peak Nepal 7319m (Main Summit)

Very sorry for the belated reply. Wasn't aware of your additions (never received a notification) . I updated the page with your info and added the 2021 climb up the N-Face. Thanks a lot!

RichardGill - Jun 10, 2022 8:42 am - Hasn't voted

Dutch women's expedition

I just read the book by Myra de Rooij about the 1988 Dutch women's expedition. I understand they got to the main summit. https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/chamlang/9200000072974858/ It's a great book and it is a pity it never got translated into English. Here are her photos from the climb: https://www.myraderooy.nl/fotos/album?id=72157633436427632

kunlun - Jun 20, 2022 5:35 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Dutch women's expedition

Thanks for the info, much appreciated! I updated the page with your new info. I clicked the link (https://www.myraderooy.nl/publicaties/verhalen/chamlang,-droom-of-werkelijkheid), the english translation says they summited "the east summit"? "In the spring of 1988 Frederike Bloemers, Annet Boom, Gerda de Groene, Janka van Leeuwen, Marjolein Meere and Myra de Rooy successfully climbed the 7290 meter high east summit of the Chamlang in Nepal. ..."

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