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Charlotte Dome Climber's Log

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Dow WilliamsCharlotte Dome  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2014

Dow Williams

With David from NY. Did the climb in 10 pitches and 4 hours. The upper corner pitch is by far the best pitch, the 8th in Super Topo I believe. Very little 5.8 climbing if any on the route and well protected. Would not hesitate soloing this route, solid rock and easy route finding. We used the bivy and went out the day of our climb as we were done by mid morning. I recommend camping at Charlotte Lake, nice not to carry a big pack any further than that and a quick route to boot not too mention that Charlotte Lake is a nice spot. The bivy is ok, but not as stunning as some make out.
Posted Jun 13, 2014 6:47 pm

haishanSouth Face, again  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2013

haishan

Climbed with my beautiful wife in 8 long pitches. Forgot the topo and got off route early. We climbed a long, sustained 5.8/5.9 crack (excellent) that rejoined the supertopo route at the p7 pink dike. The runout pitch went for nearly a full 200' before I could find an acceptable belay anchor at the base of the furrows. Camping at Charlotte Lake makes a longer day, but avoids huffing your pack the extra 8 mi, and you get a bear box.
Posted Sep 11, 2013 12:57 pm

bechttNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2013

bechtt

Another excursion from our Rae lakes loop backpack with the wives. Wes, Brian, and I left Charlotte Lake and reached the climbers camp by following an excellent use trail all of the way. We dropped our backpacks at the camp and 35 minutes later, Wes and I were standing on the summit after an easy approach and scramble along the ridge (Brian made it to the ridge but being his first ever scramble, decided the that 150' below the summit was good enough.) Back at the camp, we re-donned our backpacks and headed down the slope for Charlotte Creek. At this point it got bad because I followed the Charlotte Lake rangers advice and took us over to the south/east side of the creek. Much thrashing, side-hilling, log crawling, and talus hopping ensued with mixed cursing and occasional eating of wild raspberries. We forced our way back across the creek and through dense brush to find the climbers use trail. Which nicely took us all of the way to the Charlotte Creek campsite were we met the wives (sister in Brian's case) who had an enjoyable female bonding day descending the tamer JMT and Bubbs Creek trails.
Posted Sep 3, 2013 12:16 am

haishanRe: North Ridge

haishan

Hi bechtt- I wonder if we ran into you along the trail towards Glen Pass? We had climbed Charlotte the day before and were on our way to 60 Lakes. We were resting in the shade and chatted for a while about Charlotte Dome. Nice to see other SPers out there!
Posted Sep 11, 2013 1:02 pm

telemarkdudeSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 1986

telemarkdude

I can see why its in Roper's 50 Classics! One of the most enjoyable rock climbs I've ever done. Had three on a rope for this so we had to move fast.
Posted Nov 13, 2012 5:50 pm

Vitaliy M.South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011

Vitaliy M.

Climbed South Face with approach from the west with Bryan B. Great climb, and bushwhack up Charlotte creek is worthy. I got to lead The Slot pitch and the Furrows which I am really happy about. The Slot was probably the funnest 5.8 pitch I did anywhere, go over a roof, use a crack, and cool face features on the right. Awesome climb.
Posted Oct 31, 2011 11:26 am

ChugachManSouth Face and Sore Feet  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2010

ChugachMan

C2C with Lin in about 21.5 hours from Onion Valley. Lin's feet were wrecked with huge blisters by the end, and going into it with literally no sleep the previous night definitely made it an exhausting day for both of us. The route was fantastic though, and unique with the furrows at the top. Simuled the first half, pitched out the second, for a relaxed 5.5 hour climb. Couldn't find the summit register (missing??), but it was a beautiful day. (Would love a "climber's trail" up Onion Valley though to avoid all those low-angle switchbacks!)
Posted Jun 27, 2010 8:01 pm

BlackmouthSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009

Blackmouth

Climbed the South Face with Sper Forjan. We camped at the 10,140' camp and had no problems finding it. Great spot with clean water. Long approach. We made it a 2 day trip because I had to work on the third day. On day 2 we climbed, packed up and hiked out to the cars for a 21 hour day. I was so tired I ended up calling in sick anyway. A three day trip would have been more enjoyable, but it was still an unforgettable trip.
Posted Sep 17, 2009 12:51 pm

granjeroSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007

granjero

Brilliant climb. Worth every step to get there (from Onion Valley). Stunning views, exposure, and flawless rock. Great summit to watch the sun set.
Posted Sep 8, 2009 6:37 pm

DebSomeone Stole My Beer!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Deb

Not sure what kind of weather to expect - we ended up with perfect climbing weather, some wind halfway up but enjoyed this peak immensely! Definitely one of my favorites in the Sierra so far, this includes the descent. Very pleasant. Great camping as well and we made some new little friends. :) Great choice Darling! XXOO
OK, who swiped one of my beers from the bear box in Onion Valley?!
Posted Aug 9, 2009 10:15 pm

Dave DalyThe South Face (5.8).....A True Classic!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009

Dave Daly

Deb and I came in over from Onion Valley with a 6:45AM start on Aug. 6th. Had no problems finding the campsite McNamara describes in ST guidbook. Sweet site with really cool spring!(approx. 9980'). Met Les and Scotty along the way, who were doing the route the next day too. Great guys!....even if they were east coasters (just teasing Les...HA!). Found the start with no problems and launched into it. We simul-climbed the first 5 pitches before pitching it out at #6 (the Slot Pitch). Great climbing throughout the whole way...the granite was SUPERB! We found ourselves a little confused with the final pitch, since the ST topo shows an initial right facing corner slightly above a dead tree. Didn't see anything above resembling such....since there was a corner above that was LEFT facing! Picked an obvious right facing crack about 20 yards left of the dead tree, going up a steep golden slab section. Ended up petering out on ticklish slab to a headwall. We both felt that line sized up to about 5.9 before topping out. Oh, well. Fantastic climb with a fantastic partner!!
Posted Aug 9, 2009 9:35 pm

Digglersouth face- most excellent!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Diggler

Climbed with Faith. Approach from Onion Valley was fine (albeit loooong) until it got dark- bushwhacking through fields of manzanita trying to find the campsite was 'interesting' after we lost the trail (this probably cost us an extra hour or 2). Climb itself was one of the best I've done! Standing at the base, one would never think that a 5.8 (I would call it .8, not .7) route takes one to the top of this magnificent formation! Pretty much every pitch had great rock & climbing. The abundance of chicken heads was truly remarkable. Took me awhile to work up the gumption to get through the runout section, but once committed it went smoothly. We had the climb to ourselves the whole day! Hike back out was a lot smoother than the approach. A true classic.
Posted Aug 4, 2009 1:27 pm

brucelacroixSouth Face route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2009
Definately in my top 50 climbs.
Posted Jul 3, 2009 8:25 am

ckerthNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009

ckerth

Left the Bubbs Creek Trail from its junction with Charlotte Creek. A use trail can be found just outside of the dense shrubs lining the North side of Charlotte Creek. Once out of the brush the route was mainly class 2/3 as we contoured around to the North side. The route steepens just before the summit with class 3 moves over large blocks. Be careful if the route is wet. It started to rain as we descended and the large smooth slabs became slippery.
Posted Jun 17, 2009 6:57 pm

atavistfrom the east side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008

atavist

I hiked in over Kearsarge Pass and camped at Charlotte Lake on Saturday night. The high quality rock made for very complaisant climbing. I found some good hand cracks, chimneys and a lot of face climbing along the way.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 8:46 pm

RomainCharlotte Dome South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008

Romain

With René Renteria. This is the mother of all classic climbs - every single pitch is outstanding. It took us 8 hours to climb the route. Approached from the East.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 12:29 pm

travelin_lightSouth Face Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2008

travelin_light

First summit with my wife Joanna. Great route but keep a close eye on the weather. Lots of rock back there!
Posted Sep 3, 2008 1:30 pm

Shirley LamRoute Climbed: South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

Shirley Lam

Sierra Traverse w. Charlotte Dome in 2 days. Started from Roads End in King's Canyon, hiked up Bubb's Creek and climbed the South Face on Saturday. On Sunday, we hiked out through Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley. While at Kearsarge Pass, we witnessed an awesome afternoon thunderstorm brewing to the South. We were a little disappointed we didn't get showered to cool down and remove a little of our stink ;)
Posted Aug 26, 2008 5:02 pm

Tom FralichSouth Face (III 5.8)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008

Tom Fralich

Mary and I climbed this as a 3-day trip from Onion Valley. We hiked in on day 1 over Kearsarge Pass and got to the great campsites indicated in SuperTopo just before 8PM. Up the next morning and out of camp at 7AM, climbing at 8AM. We climbed the route in 11 pitches, topping out just after 3PM. The Slot (pitch 6) had some fantastic climbing, as did the run-out face pitch (actually not that run-out). The Furrows was a great finish, with steep juggy climbing and then an easy rope-length to a great snack ledge. We did the descent in a little over an hour and were back in camp by 5PM. Hiked out the next morning over Kearsarge Pass in about 7 hours to the car. Definitely a great climb in a spectacular setting, with a long approach through beautiful terrain.
Posted Aug 21, 2008 2:31 am

plumeSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2007

plume

A climb that lives up to its classic status. That is, once you get past the first four pitches. Camped in a meadow along Bubbs Creek. watch out for a rusty-colored fearless bear. The poor thing chomped on a fuel canister which exploded in its mouth.
Posted Jun 9, 2007 10:31 pm

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