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Dariavia West face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2013

Daria

fun scrambling on the final 200-300 ft. to summit. Cold day and spectacular views of Humphreys!

summit reconstructing was both frustrating and funny at the same time. Will make me remember this peak/summit for a long time!
Posted Sep 29, 2013 2:52 pm

DebWest Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2013

Deb

Taking chute past Emerson and traversing to skinny lake, then ascending west face via fun Class 2 and 3. Rather cold and windy, no snow issues. F'ing register can was way down a slot between boulders. Daria and I reconstructed the summit block trying to reach it. Finally, I stuck a leg down there, kicked it, then shoved 60% of my body between boulders to retrieve it. Very sketchy business just to sign a friggin piece of paper. :(
Can't wait to climb the couloirs once they fill up and freeze!
Posted Sep 27, 2013 10:08 pm

madclimberKindergarten Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006

madclimber

First ice climb, learned a lot!
Posted Nov 2, 2011 9:02 pm

dshoshoneW. Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011

dshoshone

I climbed the false summit south of the true summit first. Then traversed to summit, descended straight down the West face from summit. Nice cl. 3 stuff
Posted Jul 26, 2011 4:27 pm

ScottHansonWest Face Southeast Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009

ScottHanson

Day 6 of 2009 Sierra Challenge. I approached the peak from Piute Pass. I mistakenly went past the slender lake west of peak to climb a saddle to its north. After wasting an hour I got on the west face and got to the top of the peak. I followed Bob Burd's return route choice descending class 2 SE slopes, but unfortunately I had to regain much elevation later gaining a steep shoulder off Emerson/Piute Crags. Finally saw North Lake parking area to complete trip. I don't think I saved anytime on my return route.
Posted May 15, 2010 1:12 pm

Bob BurdWest Face / SE Slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Bob Burd

On day 5 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge, climbed the West Face with Michael Graupe in a bit over three hours. I took the SE Slopes down and around the back side of Emerson and Piute Crags to make a big loop of things. Trip Report
Posted Sep 7, 2008 7:36 pm

Michael GraupeWest Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Michael Graupe

2008 Sierra Challenge. Didn't hike all the way to Piute Pass but went straight up the drainage north of Piute Lake. This is probably the fastes way to get to the upper Humphreys Basin. Ascended the West Face too far to the south and had to traverse quite a bit to keep the climbing to class 3.
Posted Aug 26, 2008 7:59 pm

sbauerRoute Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 13, 2007

sbauer

Hiked in on Saturday morning, messed around on the snow. Climbed Kindergarten's Couloir on Sunday, summited Checkered Demon and had some fun glissades on the way down.
Posted May 15, 2007 2:01 pm

bechttRoute Climbed: West Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2006

bechtt

Warm-up hike for Mt Humphreys the next day. Started from North Lake at noon with backpacks. Dropped pack at 3PM and climbed Checkered Demon -- nice scramble with great views. Pictures
Posted Oct 1, 2006 11:12 pm

benjamingrayRoute Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006

benjamingray

We got a really late start due to a few random complications but decided went for it anyway. Topped out at midnight and walked down the southeast slope. Needless to say it was a long day(s). Climbing at night is certainly a cool experience!
Posted Sep 19, 2006 5:19 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: September 18, 2005  Sucess!

forjan

Climbed with awagher and rhyang. Pretty much what they said. The Kindergarten is pretty mellow (38 to 42 degree slope). Because my car could only go up to within 1/2 mile of the McGee Creek crossing, we had a much longer approach. All in all, a 15+ hour day. Yeah, that someone was me who opted for the direct way down....meant bushwacking and a return to my hay fever allergies. Lost count how many times I sneezed on the way down.
Posted Sep 19, 2005 4:25 pm

rhyangRoute Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: 18-Sept-2005

rhyang

Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Andrew Wagher.



Lots of cold hard neve with a few patches of ice. I don't think the angle of this one ever exceeded 40 degrees - quite similar to the Dana Couloir in that respect. Well, maybe a little steeper at the very top, but not by much.



We soloed the first couple hundred feet to an ice patch, then roped up just to get the ropes off our backs. Miguel led the first pitch, then I led the second. The last pitch and a half or so we simulclimbed with Miguel in the lead. Used screws for belays - rock quality looked poor, though I think Miguel used a nut and a green alien to belay from the top.



Didn't bother with the class 2 choss-walk to the summit, but Miguel and Andrew decided to do it and saw down the Checkered Demon proper. They said it looked ugly.



Speaking of the right couloir - we spent a little time looking at the schrund before heading up the left. Looked to be about 10-20' of WI4, perhaps stemming off rock edges on the right, overhanging nastiness on the left.



Approach took us about 4 hours - we couldn't get all the way in to the trailhead and had to park around 7700'. Descended via the southeast slopes, initially in the Birch Creek drainage, then contouring north - a good use trail seemed to be present most of the way, until someone decided we had to take a more "direct" route, which resulted in a nasty bushwhack.



16 hours car-to-car. A fun day's adventure.
Posted Sep 19, 2005 12:41 pm

awagherRoute Climbed: Kindergarden Couloir Date Climbed: September 18th, 2005  Sucess!

awagher

Climbed with Miguel


and



Rob


Did a little bouldering at the Buttermilks the day before. That was a good time...As far as the Checkered Demon-it was a long day out as a rope team of 3. We soloed the first pitch and then roped up for 3 and simul-climbed the last pitch and a half on hard 35 to 40+/- degree neve. There were only two large patches of ice in the whole couloir. Maybe it will shape up better in October.
Posted Sep 19, 2005 4:52 am

asmrzRoute Climbed: Checkered Demon Ice Couloir Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 9, 1998

asmrz

On October 8th 1998, I sat in the living room of Eric Klostermann's home in Bishop. We sipped coffee and stared at Mt. Humphreys. He asked me if I climbed any of the gullies. My -no- answer set up the next three climbs for us. The first one, climbed next morning, was the Checkered Demon. Eric drove his truck up to the Cirque bellow the peak and from there, we hiked to the base. There are two couloirs at the base of Checkered Demon Peak, the left one, Kindergarten Couloir and the right one, the Checkered Demon Couloir which was our goal.We brought a rope and ice screws, but since the couloir was in perfect conditions, decided to solo the gully, climbing together. In the upper part, we took the right fork. Above the fork, the gully narrows and becomes mixed. It took us about 3 hours to do it. We were slowed in the last 200-300 feet, where we had to be careful soloing 4th class loose rock mixed with hard ice. This is a very good route when in conditions. I heard that in the last couple of years, there was no ice in the upper part of the climb, which would make it loose, 4th class. Recommended when in condition. Can be done easily in one day RT from Bishop.
Posted Nov 10, 2002 12:00 pm

Craig PeerRoute Climbed: Right Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 1983  Sucess!

Craig Peer

Climbed this wild gully with Tim Winiarski, Mike Meng and Scott Morrison. A hard finish including loose stuff. Passed 4 other climbers on the way!
Posted Sep 30, 2002 3:57 pm

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