John Muir Wilderness > Checkered Demon > Climber's LogCheckered Demon Climber's Log
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| madclimber | Kindergarten Couloir  Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006 | |
| First ice climb, learned a lot! | |
| Posted Nov 2, 2011 9:02 pm | ||
| dshoshone | W. Face Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011 | |
| I climbed the false summit south of the true summit first. Then traversed to summit, descended straight down the West face from summit. Nice cl. 3 stuff | |
| Posted Jul 26, 2011 4:27 pm | ||
| ScottHanson | West Face Southeast Slope Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009 | |
| Day 6 of 2009 Sierra Challenge. I approached the peak from Piute Pass. I mistakenly went past the slender lake west of peak to climb a saddle to its north. After wasting an hour I got on the west face and got to the top of the peak. I followed Bob Burd's return route choice descending class 2 SE slopes, but unfortunately I had to regain much elevation later gaining a steep shoulder off Emerson/Piute Crags. Finally saw North Lake parking area to complete trip. I don't think I saved anytime on my return route. | |
| Posted May 15, 2010 1:12 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | West Face / SE Slopes Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008 | |
| On day 5 of the 2008 Sierra Challenge, climbed the West Face with Michael Graupe in a bit over three hours. I took the SE Slopes down and around the back side of Emerson and Piute Crags to make a big loop of things. Trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2008 7:36 pm | ||
| Michael Graupe | West Face Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008 | |
| 2008 Sierra Challenge. Didn't hike all the way to Piute Pass but went straight up the drainage north of Piute Lake. This is probably the fastes way to get to the upper Humphreys Basin. Ascended the West Face too far to the south and had to traverse quite a bit to keep the climbing to class 3. | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2008 7:59 pm | ||
| sbauer | Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: May 13, 2007 | |
| Hiked in on Saturday morning, messed around on the snow. Climbed Kindergarten's Couloir on Sunday, summited Checkered Demon and had some fun glissades on the way down. | |
| Posted May 15, 2007 2:01 pm | ||
| bechtt | Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2006 | |
| Warm-up hike for Mt Humphreys the next day. Started from North Lake at noon with backpacks. Dropped pack at 3PM and climbed Checkered Demon -- nice scramble with great views. Pictures | |
| Posted Oct 1, 2006 11:12 pm | ||
| benjamingray | Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2006 | |
| We got a really late start due to a few random complications but decided went for it anyway. Topped out at midnight and walked down the southeast slope. Needless to say it was a long day(s). Climbing at night is certainly a cool experience! | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2006 5:19 pm | ||
| forjan | Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: September 18, 2005 | |
| Climbed with awagher and rhyang. Pretty much what they said. The Kindergarten is pretty mellow (38 to 42 degree slope). Because my car could only go up to within 1/2 mile of the McGee Creek crossing, we had a much longer approach. All in all, a 15+ hour day. Yeah, that someone was me who opted for the direct way down....meant bushwacking and a return to my hay fever allergies. Lost count how many times I sneezed on the way down. | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2005 4:25 pm | ||
| rhyang | Route Climbed: Kindergarten Couloir Date Climbed: 18-Sept-2005 | |
| Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Andrew Wagher. Lots of cold hard neve with a few patches of ice. I don't think the angle of this one ever exceeded 40 degrees - quite similar to the Dana Couloir in that respect. Well, maybe a little steeper at the very top, but not by much. We soloed the first couple hundred feet to an ice patch, then roped up just to get the ropes off our backs. Miguel led the first pitch, then I led the second. The last pitch and a half or so we simulclimbed with Miguel in the lead. Used screws for belays - rock quality looked poor, though I think Miguel used a nut and a green alien to belay from the top. Didn't bother with the class 2 choss-walk to the summit, but Miguel and Andrew decided to do it and saw down the Checkered Demon proper. They said it looked ugly. Speaking of the right couloir - we spent a little time looking at the schrund before heading up the left. Looked to be about 10-20' of WI4, perhaps stemming off rock edges on the right, overhanging nastiness on the left. Approach took us about 4 hours - we couldn't get all the way in to the trailhead and had to park around 7700'. Descended via the southeast slopes, initially in the Birch Creek drainage, then contouring north - a good use trail seemed to be present most of the way, until someone decided we had to take a more "direct" route, which resulted in a nasty bushwhack. 16 hours car-to-car. A fun day's adventure. | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2005 12:41 pm | ||
| awagher | Route Climbed: Kindergarden Couloir Date Climbed: September 18th, 2005 | |
| Climbed with Miguel
and Rob Did a little bouldering at the Buttermilks the day before. That was a good time...As far as the Checkered Demon-it was a long day out as a rope team of 3. We soloed the first pitch and then roped up for 3 and simul-climbed the last pitch and a half on hard 35 to 40+/- degree neve. There were only two large patches of ice in the whole couloir. Maybe it will shape up better in October. | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2005 4:52 am | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: Checkered Demon Ice Couloir Solo Date Climbed: Oct 9, 1998 | |
| On October 8th 1998, I sat in the living room of Eric Klostermann's home in Bishop. We sipped coffee and stared at Mt. Humphreys. He asked me if I climbed any of the gullies. My -no- answer set up the next three climbs for us. The first one, climbed next morning, was the Checkered Demon. Eric drove his truck up to the Cirque bellow the peak and from there, we hiked to the base. There are two couloirs at the base of Checkered Demon Peak, the left one, Kindergarten Couloir and the right one, the Checkered Demon Couloir which was our goal.We brought a rope and ice screws, but since the couloir was in perfect conditions, decided to solo the gully, climbing together. In the upper part, we took the right fork. Above the fork, the gully narrows and becomes mixed. It took us about 3 hours to do it. We were slowed in the last 200-300 feet, where we had to be careful soloing 4th class loose rock mixed with hard ice. This is a very good route when in conditions. I heard that in the last couple of years, there was no ice in the upper part of the climb, which would make it loose, 4th class. Recommended when in condition. Can be done easily in one day RT from Bishop. | |
| Posted Nov 10, 2002 12:00 pm | ||
| Craig Peer | Route Climbed: Right Couloir Date Climbed: September 4, 1983 | |
| Climbed this wild gully with Tim Winiarski, Mike Meng and Scott Morrison. A hard finish including loose stuff. Passed 4 other climbers on the way! | |
| Posted Sep 30, 2002 3:57 pm | ||
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