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Ciarforon North Face & Normal Routes Old "Safety" 1979

 
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Ciarforon North Face & Normal Routes Old "Safety" 1979
Giuseppe Lamazzi attentive, in the middle of Ciarforon North Face.

Old "Safety"

July 01th, 1979


Action photo

by

Camillo Roberto Ferronato

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Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

drorfidnice

drorfid

Voted 10/10

you started before there were camalots, and ice screws ?
i think maybe that made the climbing more interesting..
Posted Nov 4, 2010 5:03 am

OsvaldoCardellinaRe: nice

OsvaldoCardellina

Hasn't voted

Old style forced of ice-climbing in Sixties and Seventies. Since 1967 (the my first ascent and after, in several times and many times, in N Face till 1980) until 1975 hemitubular ice pitons or Stubai screws (in the shape of corkscrew) extant; the climbing occurs by ice-axe (to steps-footholds cut in lateral with diagonal progression ascent on "verglass") and crampons by 10/12, front points in down, for steep and mixed slopes icy with rocks (even 65°, rarely 70°). After, there's been a fashion explosion piolet-traction.
More interesting the last? Peut-etre, but of course less fair and loyal in regard to first ascents of epoch mountaineers; the new technology there has debased this, devalued and depreciated those performances (examples:Grivola's NE and NW, Great's Paradise NW, Roccia's Viva N, Gay's Becca N, Verte, Droites, Courtes N Faces, Tacul various couloirs, Brenva's basin routes etcetera. The renowned mountain guide E'mile Rey of Courmayeur, with Paul Gussfeldt, Christian Klucker and César Ollier, makes the first ascent on the Péuterey's Crest upon the Mount Blanc without axe, crampons and pitons in August 1893, but with alpenstock!).
"I think maybe that made the climbing more interesting.." ... Certainly less safe ...
CIAO Os, et excuse moi for my rudimental/Neolithic Anglais.
Posted Nov 9, 2010 3:40 am

drorfidRe: nice

drorfid

Voted 10/10

yes,very interesting !
i agree that the people that climbed without the newer equipment are not recognized for the achievements..
it is the same in all areas of life, when young people do not know how people of the previous generation lived (and climbed..). I think something is gained by newer equipment (more safety, etc..), but also something is lost.

also today you can look in google earth at some unclimbed peak in china, and see all possible routes without even been there ! so today people have to know what is their values or ideals when climbing, someone may choose not to look at google earth to preserve the encounter with the unknown mountain.. or someone else will look in advance at the images to search for the "best" route ..
Posted Nov 10, 2010 4:34 am

OsvaldoCardellinaRe: nice

OsvaldoCardellina

Hasn't voted

OK. Je suis in accordance with Drorfid. D'ailleurs dans ce monde c'é proprio di tutto!
CIAO os
Posted Nov 20, 2010 3:05 am

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OsvaldoCardellinaSubmitted by OsvaldoCardellina
on Mar 2, 2010 4:25 am

Image ID: 601356
Hits: 2520 
Object Title: Ciarforon North Face & Normal Routes Old "Safety" 1979

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing