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Cima Iuribrutto
Mountain/Rock

Cima Iuribrutto

 
Cima Iuribrutto

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trentino, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35950°N / 11.76510°E

Object Title: Cima Iuribrutto

Elevation: 8848 ft / 2697 m

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Sep 7, 2005 / Feb 21, 2006

Object ID: 154630

Hits: 2841 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Overview


Cima Iuribrutto as seen from Sentiero della Pace


Cima Iuribrutto (also Giuribrutto and Juribrutto) is the second highest mountain of the small Cima Bocche Group to the south of the Dolomites. The Group itself is mainly composed of red porphyry rocks and rather can be attributed to the similar Catena di Lagorai to its south than the Dolomites to its north. All mountains show shallow slopes to the south and impressive, but broken walls to the north. Cima Iuribrutto is no exception and all routes to the mountain lead across the southern slopes.

The ascent is facilitated by two cable cars / chair lifts to both sides of the Cima Bocche group. Both have been built to serve the winter skiing guests and consequently the areas surrounding these lifts have been destroyed by heavy development. Especially to the north, around Col Margherita you can get depressive. The whole Lastè di Pradazzo slope is used for ski runs and in the summertime you will hear the incessant drone of steam hammers and caterpillars "developing" the slopes.

But I don't want to scare you away - rather otherwise. Cima Iuribrutto is different. It is part of the Parco Naturale Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino and this is closed to development. The only ski run is located far to the west of Iuribrutto and it feels like entering a different world as you enter the park and leave all the noise behind. Moreover Iuribrutto doesn't see too many ascents - neighbouring Cima Bocche is far more popular and the trails pass to the south of Cima Iuribrutto. What a difference 50m can make!

All ascents to Cima Iuribrutto are very easy. The hardest is the direct route from Passo di San Pellegrino which negotiates the crest between Col delle Palùe and Col d'Orso directly below the Iuribrutto north face. All converge in Forca di Iuribrutto from where a pathless scramble leads you to the summit. You will find cairns along the way which can lead you to the summit but finding them (and thus reaching the summit) can be quite a challenge. They blend in with the red porphyry blocks and are hard to make out, it might even be best to simply use your own judgement.

The summit itself is a flat plain, a fact which made it an important position for the Italian Alpini during WW I. All of the summits of the group held these positions but the one on Cima Iuribrutto is massive. An area corresponding to four football fields has been cut off by walls and trenches. The porphyry rocks proved to be a perfect building material. Iuribrutto must have been rather central to the Italian war effort in the area as it commands views of both Passo di San Pellegrino and Passo Vallès. Both are natural passes which can easily be reached by any vehicle. Much of that whole history can still be seen on the summit.

Part of the direct route from Passo di San Pellegrino follows the so called Sentiero della Pace, a long trekking trail which follows and commemorates the old paths built during WW I. It follows the whole former Austrian Italian border between Passo di Stelvio / Stilfser Joch and Marmolada to the east. Passo di San Pellegrino is the last major pass before the Sentiero hits the MArmolada Group and ends at Passo Fedaia.

Summit views

P. AllochetPlattkofelZahnkofelInnerkofler TurmGrohmannsp.LangkofelL a n g k o f e l   G r o u pP. delle SellePala di CarpellaPic. LasteiGr. LasteiG e i s l e r   G r o u pC. CampagnaccaS e l l a   G r o u pC. CostabellaPiz BoèS. CostabellaGran VernelP. ValateOm GrantC. UomoS. TascaM a r m o l a d aS. VernaleC. OmbrettolaS. Valfredda
Summit View Cima Iuribrutto: Sas Lonch, Sella and Marmolada Groups   Hide / Show annotations


All summits of the Cima Bocche Group are perfect viewpoints. Pale di San Martino and Lagorai to the south, Latemar and Rosengarten / Catinaccio to the west, Sas Lonch / Langkofel and the Marmolada Group to the north and east form a natural amphitheatre. Choose your climbing day carefully! It should be perfect weather!

Getting There


Cima Iuribrutto, Cima Bocche and Gronton as seen from Sentiero della Pace


There are two trailheads, one at Passo di San Pellegrino, one at Passo Vallès. Actually you can traverse the group from pass to pass but the northern route along Col Margherita is a questionable pleasure due to the ski runs.

  • From the North (Brenner / Brennero)
    Follow motorway A22 down to Cornedo (north of Bozen / Bolzano). There turn east on SS241 (Dolomite Highway) across Karerpass / Passo Carezza to Vigo di Fassa. At Vigo turn southward on SS48 which leads you to Moena. In the centre of the town SP346 turns off eastward in direction of Passo San Pellegrino. For Passo Vallès stay on SS48 until you reach Predazzo. Turn onto SS50 east which you need to leave east of Lago di Paneveggio on SP81 north. Best trailheads are Malga Iuribrutto and Malga Vallazza, both located east of Passo Vallès

    From Verona
    Take A22 north until the exit Ora / Auer. There turn east on SS48 direction Val die Fiemme which in the end will take you to Predazzo and Moena. Turn onto SS50 east or SP346 east depending on your trailhead. For the remainder follow the instructions above.

    Red Tape


    Be careful when you climb Cima Iuribrutto. You'll encounter wild and dangerous animals like this one ;-)


    Cima Iuribrutto and the centre of the Cima Bocche Group are located within the park boundaries of the Parco Naturale Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino.

    The Natural Park consists of the area of the Pale di San Martino Group as well as the forest of Paneveggio and the porphyritic chain of Lagorai. It contains an area of 125 sqare km which in 1987 has been divided in three different levels of protection:
    33% of the area have been declared complete protected areas,
    60% are restriced areas while
    7% are controlled area.

    For more information you can look at the Park's official website.

    There are no fees or limitations for hiking and climbing, also parking is free.

    When To Climb

    The mountain can be climbed all year long. The best time in summer is June through October. In winter there are quite a number of ski tours which you can use, all starting from the valleys to the south.

    Accommodation

    The best information on boarding houses and hotels can be found on www.dolomiti.it. The site is not complete – you might find more information on local tourist web sites, but it already offers an impressive list. The following listing gives you an overview for the surrounding villages and towns:

    Val di Fassa
    Agordino

    Weather Conditions

    Weather and avalanche conditions in Trentino (west of Passo San Pellegrino): www.meteotrentino.it

    Weather conditions in Belluno (east of Passo San Pellegrino): www.meteoalpin.com. For the english text you have to scroll down the right frame.

    Weather conditions Dolomites:www.dolomitimeteo.com

    Maps 'n' Books

    Maps
    The Cima Bocche Group is located at the intersection of just about all sets of maps I know. The mapping companies rather concentrate on the surrounding Dolomites than on the small Bocche Group. Therefore I have to offer you a huge amount of maps.
    • Pale di San Martino
      1:50000
      Kompass Map WK76
      Kompass Verlag
      ISBN: 3-85491-086-x
      The best overview as it contains the whole group.
    • Pale di San Martino
      1:25000
      Tabacco Map 022
      Editione Tabacco
      Contains the western part of the Bocche Group starting from Passo Lusia.
    • Tabacco Maps 006, 014, 029 also contain parts of the Bocche Group


    Books
    In contrast to the maps there are several books which deal with the Bocche Group:
    • Hiking
      • Dolomiten 4 (Fassatal, Marmolada, Rosengarten)
        F. Hauleitner
        Rother Verlag
        ISBN: 3-7633-4061-0
      • Dolomiten
        F. Köck
        Kompass Verlag
        ISBN: 3-87051-409-4

    • Ferrate
      • Hülslers Klettersteigführer Dolomiten
        E. E. Hülsler
        Bruckmann Verlag
        ISBN: 3-7654-4161-9

    Images