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Clyde Variation

Clyde Variation

Clyde Variation

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.68940°N / 119.1981°W

Object Title: Clyde Variation

Route Type: Basic Snow Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Class 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: steeleman

Created/Edited: Oct 28, 2001 / Oct 28, 2001

Object ID: 155876

Hits: 11946 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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From Agnew Meadows, follow the Shadow Lake Trail to Shadow Lake. Continue on the trail past the JMT junction. 200 yards below the outlet of Ediza Lake, you will see a small wooden bridge crossing Shadow Creek. Do NOT cross the bridge, but instead stay on the right (north) side of Shadow Creek. Follow a rough use trail along the right side of the creek and eventually, along the right side of Ediza Lake. The use trail will become easier to follow after some short boulderhopping. Good campsites abound above the NW corner of Ediza Lake.

Route Description

From Ediza Lake, climb into the large valley below Mt. Ritter & Banner Peaks. You will see a very obvious gully heading west, up the flanks of Mt. Ritter. To the left of this gully is a large granite dome, and to the right of the gully are a series of rocks with scrawy pine trees/bushes growing out of them. Follow this gully all the way to its top, and exit the gully to climber's right. You will then see a moderately steep talus slope heading up NW towards Mt. Ritter. Follow this up to a steep snowfield with huge suncups. Cross this snowfield and angle upwards to the left, gaining the obvious small col between the lowest two of the Ritter Pinnacles. From this col, traverse across a snowy gap (crampons required) and exit onto the SE glacier. From here, follow the normal SE glacier route and the chutes to the summit.

Essential Gear

Crampons and Ice Axe required

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Mt Ritter and Banner Peak,...First light at about 11,000ftClyde VariationMap of Clyde Variation Route...Looking towards Minarets from...Traverse of SE Glacier on DescentHakan at the SE Col. SE...
View of the ColClydeCol1ClydeCol2ClydeCol3