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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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sunshineFirst Attempt
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011
Very intense weather, turned back at 5500 feet. Would love to try again some day.
Posted Jan 1, 2013 7:52 pm

slychels04Failed Attempt at Cotopaxi
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012


My first mountain attempt with the aid of crampons and ice axe was not a successful one. Acclimating with Rucu Pichincha, Guagua Pichincha, and Iliniza Norte wasn't quite enough to get me ready for Cotopaxi. I turned around still in the dark at 17,400 ft. I never developed a headache on the climb it hit me later when back at the refuge.
Posted Dec 31, 2012 9:48 pm

pokieloose  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 26, 2012
Some fresh snowfall and wind made a few short traverses a pain, but not too bad.
Posted Dec 19, 2012 6:09 pm

jm141302Very Windy  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2012


Stayed in the refugio which was completely full. Some people had to sleep on the tables and benches downstairs. The wind was severe. Walking and standing were impossible at some points. Our group of 3 was the only group to get to the top that day. We started at 1:00 a.m., got to the top by 6:00 and returned at 9:30. Everything on us became covered in a thick layer of ice. We could only spend about 5 minutes on the summit. Not much of a view. The best part of the trip was meeting Erik Weihenmayer and the Soldiers to Summits team. First-class group and organization.
Posted Dec 10, 2012 9:51 am

Bill562Coto - second time on summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2012


With Murad and Mike. No acclimatization - summited 57 hours after landing in Quito. The route was quite a bit different this time - primarily more icy, weather was better this time.
Posted Nov 30, 2012 12:01 am

ajaysomaniNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 28, 2012


This was a second attempt after I abandoned the first time due to bad health a couple of days ago. Weather this time was great, completely clear and we even got to see the crater!
Posted Nov 29, 2012 3:21 pm

attimountNormal route
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012


Unfortunately we had to turn back just about one hour from the summt due to tiredness. Great conditions, nice weather. Maybe next time.
Posted Nov 25, 2012 6:11 pm

jackroperCold....  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012


We were shut down once on Cayambe and once on Cotopaxi on this trip. The weather was brutal. Our guide Billy from RMI got consensus from us to go on an all out sufferfest and push to the top in a final summit bid. It was tough but in the end we stood on top covered in an inch of rime ice. Good times.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 6:03 pm

logikalWonderful Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2012


What a beautiful glacier! Great view from the top with little to no wind. Such a clear night we didnt have to turn on our headlamps once.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 3:02 pm

Bluebell08Standard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2012


Great climb, quite windy but clear other than some low clouds that still gave us decent views (but not of the crater). 7+ hours to the top, only about 2 hour decent. Snow conditions were very good, got a lucky break in the weather (that had included ice/snow/drizzle in the days prior) for a perfect climb and summit day.
Posted Jul 21, 2012 11:31 am

stefbarsantiwindy ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012
Wow!!! What an incredible mission that was!! Others had told me that it was a reasonably straight forward climb, but the strong winds on Sunday morning made it a very tough ascent. The route was quite straight forward, had to jump over a few crevasses, but other than that, snow conditions were excellent, but strong winds really make this climb very challenging. Left the refugio at 1.15am and summited at 6.15am, exhausted, emotional, and very relieved. Thanks to my guide Nicholas, he is the man!!!
Posted Jul 2, 2012 9:13 am

Garon CorizRebuffed
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2012

Garon Coriz

Made it to 17,400' before turning around. We (Francisco, Nikki, and I) had a late start from the car lot. Though unconditioned, we seemed to be making good time but winds and route-finding proved a problem. Our ride was to pick us up at 11 am and we simply ran out of time. Talking to others, no one topped out that day due to the strong winds.
Posted Jul 1, 2012 6:53 pm

jackroperRe: Rebuffed


You were there the same time we were. It was a tough week and few teams summited.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 6:04 pm

schlegerWhew!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2012


Summited, I think. I am thankful to have my daughter, Guide Edgar, and my camera to help me reconstruct the events that took place between 12:30 am and 6:35 am (I think my watch said 6:35 but I was encapsulated in a layer of rime ice). The landscape with all its shapes, curves, angles was surreal. I will sit down with my daughter to analyze the photos to determine what was real or an altitude induced hallucination. The mouse or vole-like mammal running around in circles on the snow at 18,000 was real! Great experience!
Posted Jun 22, 2012 1:32 am

Arnie777Cotopaxi Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011


Amazing mountain! Arrived at the refuge late afternoon and started climbing with our guide at 1:30 AM. Weather was very poor with snow and wind all night long. No view at the top, as there were clouds and winds blowing up the mountain. Really cold day and our guide apologized for the bad weather. I can say im proud of myself because only a handfull people made it to the summit that day.
Posted May 21, 2012 2:09 pm

SocorroSecond attempt...
Date Climbed: May 1, 2012


Four teams today - two American (as one party) and two French as one party. None of us made it. One team went down due to altitude sickness, and the rest of us reached the very same crevasse I mentioned in my last log in September at about 5400 meters. Again, we tried to pick our way through it but couldnt quite do it. Had to jump a little onto a serac and climb up that to continue through the mess. The French teams watching us work on the ice decided to turn back at that point and we shortly followed. The weather was less than desireable with some wind and blowing snow, lot of rime ice. Disappointed but had a really fun time and felt great most of the way. Plus I still have a year left to finally get through that crevasse!
Posted May 1, 2012 9:32 pm

Garon CorizRe: Second attempt...

Garon Coriz

Seems like New Mexicans hit a ceiling around that crevasse. A guy from NM Tech couldn't find his way through it. My friend knew the way but we turned around due to time constraints.
Posted Jul 1, 2012 6:59 pm

larch32Cotopaxi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 8, 2012
I vastly underestimated this peak. The objective danger and crevasse danger were both more than anyone I talked to let on. Took off from the refuge at about 12:30 and we were on the top before 6am... climbed completely by moonlight.
Posted Mar 8, 2012 7:57 pm

MeghdootRe: Cotopaxi
Hi, Congratulations. Which guide service have you used?
Posted May 18, 2012 9:21 am

reconronin949RMI strikes again!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2011


Was part of a great team, led by RMI guides Casey, JT, and Freddie (Ecuadoran climbing machine). Snowed all night, headed out at about 1 AM. First team out of the gate, so we had to kick steps all the way up. Our group was big, and for the size, made good overall time. Summitted in just a bit over 7 hrs. Back down in 3:10. Windy, a couple of tricky parts/crevasses, but a great climb.
Posted Jan 6, 2012 4:04 pm

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