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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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roadsidefireRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: June 2003


Not well acclamatized and climbing solo. Ran into storm, 2m visibility, happy didn't fall into cravesses. Started at 12am and aborted around 2am around 5000m.
Posted Apr 14, 2004 4:15 am

mookyeeRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: july 17, 2002  Sucess!


dope climb. thanks gio (representin oakland) and diego "vamos a la playa" castillo for draggin' my a** up. we left the refugio after not sleeping a wink just after midnight and summited around 8:00 am. mad altitude sickness, but made it paso a pasito up the ill 50-60 degree slope at the end. spectacular views from the top, but i think the martian landscape and all of ecuador laid out before you in the moonlight was the dopest. then when you come back down in the light you're like "what the **** did i just climb up?"
Posted Mar 9, 2004 1:08 am

Dan BaileyRoute Climbed: via normale Date Climbed: some time in 1997

Dan Bailey

Hooked up with a random german guy called Steffen in Quito. Wore jeans and a silk shirt (plus some other stuff, naturally) on summit day. Had to retreat from somewhere quite near the top when a storm swept in and visibility got bad.
Posted Feb 10, 2004 12:15 pm

Miguel Angel PerezRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Jan. 02, 2004  Sucess!

Miguel Angel Perez

After a going back because of bad snow conditions and too much wind on Dec. 20, 2003, we returned to Cotopaxi on Jan. 2, 2004. It was a clear night with a little bit of wind.

The summit was without clouds but when we finally reached it, the crater was coverd with clouds.

Finally I reached the Cotopaxi summit in my 4th try. It was great!!!

Posted Jan 24, 2004 4:33 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: February 1993  Sucess!
Straightforward climb, good weather.
Posted Jan 20, 2004 7:01 pm

IdahoClimberRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2, 2004  Sucess!


See my trip report for the full rundown. Climbed in high winds, and mixed clouds. Upon reaching the summit I was disappointed to not see the crater or any of the other peaks.

Used a guide and it was well worth it both logistically and on the mountain, highly recommended. Be aware that there is some 60 to 70 degree ice climbing at this time that is a little unsettling if you are not prepared.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Posted Jan 19, 2004 10:52 am

edouetRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Dec 07 and 14, 2003  Sucess!
Climbed Cotopaxi 2 times in 7 days, just to be sure to take good pictures of everything !

Wonderful trek through ice and crevasses; much more snow on Dec 14, making way down dangerous .

6 hours on the way up from the hut, 1.5 hour on the way down .

I climbed with Uli from Austria and her guide Pato Salazar on Dec 07 ( my guide J. Mesias had to go back with the other client of our party ) .

I climbed with Craig Vieth from the USA and his guide Jacobo on Dec 14 ( my guide Flavio had to go back with the other client of our party )!!!!

Thanks to all these people for helping me to climb this fantastic mountain .

Viva Ecuador !
Posted Jan 7, 2004 12:36 pm

DrifterRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: November 16, 2002  Sucess!


I climbed this mountain with Peter, from Sweden. He had never done any mountaineering before, but managed to summit. It was very crowded that day and we started out as the last group from the refuge. We passed more groups than I could count. The weather started out nice and became really windy and then visibility dropped to about 10 feet. This made the last steep section very hard. Our group and only one other group managed to summit that day. It is a great climb. I highly reccommend it. The picture is of Peter at the summit. Obviously a bit tired! You can see how bad the visibility was. I wish I would have been able to see into the crater or the view. I guess I'll just have to go back.
Posted Dec 27, 2003 12:45 pm

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 22, 2003  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Climbed to the summit in 5 hours from the hut with Paul Hudson, arriving on top at 6:30AM. Perfect summit day - clear skies and not too cold. All of the other volcanoes were visible from the summit. The glacier was very complex and would be difficult to navigate with no track. The final 300m to the summit were a beast. Strong smell of sulfur near the summit. Definitely a beautiful mountain.
Posted Dec 22, 2003 8:02 pm

RockhopperRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: october 13-14, 2003  Sucess!


Started to climb at 1.00 am. After climbing Misti and Chachani in Peru, I was well acclimatised. Despite the fact that I had no altitude problems, I had to slow down. The weather conditions were fine (good visibility, no wind). The last 200 altimeters are more steep. Reached the summit in 6,5 hours together with my guide Raul (agency: Julio Verne). Nice views on the crater and my next peak (Chimborazo).

On the way down we moved fast (sometimes taking a short cut jumping across a crevasse). Reached the refugio without any problems.

Posted Oct 22, 2003 4:29 am

Tomás BlázquezRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 2003

Tomás Blázquez

I climbed Cotopaxi by the normal route. The ice started about 5100 metres high. The glacier was very icy and it was dificult to find the track because there wasn´t snow in this part of the way. It's better to have a guide before you to find the correct way. You can find in the descent some hidden holes in the snow. If you go with a guide you have to be careful: they want to climb quickly, and some of them don't want to get the top.

Tomás Blázquez, Madrid, Spain
Posted Oct 18, 2003 4:45 pm

Miguel Angel PerezRoute Climbed: South Route and Normal Route Date Climbed: April, 2002

Miguel Angel Perez

The south route was nice but no better than the north side (normal route). We had to turn around because of an inmense crevease that blocked the route.

On the normal route 2 of the 6 of my group reached the summit. I got sick and turn around at 5.700 m.

Going there again in December 2003 and going down on skis!!!
Posted Aug 22, 2003 11:08 am

Jerry LNormal Route / February, 1976 & February, 2003
Date Climbed: Feb 8, 1976

Jerry L

My first attempt was on February 8, 1976 when I was working there with the Peace Corps. We made it to 17,000' and turned back. I'd forgot about this but was looking through some of my old letters and found several references to our failed attempt.

My next attempt was with my son in February, 2003. We left the refuge at about 1:00 a.m. The weather was terrible with sleet and high winds. It was evident that I had not completely recovered from a virus which I had several days earlier and I felt very weak. I decided to turn around at about 16,500' , short of the glaciers, as I knew I didn't have the energy to summit. My son made it to the glaciers with our guide and then they turned back.
Posted Mar 6, 2003 4:49 am

miztflipRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 15-16 February 2003  Sucess!


Bad luck with the weather as 20 people summited the day we arrived at the hut followed by7-8 inches of snow. We attempted to summit on both days following with both attempts ending around 19,000 due to the avalanche conditions. Tons of other parties climbing with the same results. The day after we left the weather improved and several teams made the summit. It just wasn't my trip.
Posted Feb 25, 2003 9:20 am

tonybell1Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 16, 2003  Sucess!


Good weather and great snow conditions
Posted Feb 23, 2003 8:12 pm

mtnman455Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: January 2003  Sucess!


we camped just to the right of the hut; too cheep to pay to stay. sumit took 5.5 hours. wicked weather. visibility was about 5m at best. covered in ice. no view at the summit but I still love the summit pic.
Posted Jan 30, 2003 11:42 pm

Zhenya77Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 30, 2002  Sucess!


Once we finished our acclimatization on two Illinizas we moved to Mt. Cotopaxi. From the base camp our team started to climb at around 2:30 am. It was a short hike to a glassier. Being in the dark we did not see the path. So i decided to go vertically up on the glassier. After 3 vertical meters the glassier become less steep. We roped up and continue to climb. Finally i saw a group of German alpinists ahead of us. I followoed there path and finally we were on the right trail. Some of our member was not acclimatized well. Thus they could not keep up with the tempo. At around 6:00 am i decide to continue summit "SOLO". Once i get out of rope i started to move up much more faster. At 9:00 am i reached the summit. I spent there about and hour, and then came back to the base camp. Unfortunatly i had to come back when the sun was way up. Thus it was enormous heat. I ran out of water, which forced me to eat snow. I return to camp safe, however i have to sdmit it was quite a stranious walk for a total of 9 hours
Posted Jan 23, 2003 7:56 pm

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January 11 2003  Sucess!

El Tigre Valderrama

With my wife Annica Carlsson, I summited the Cotopaxi at about 7:30 AM, after about 6.5 hours. We had light rain and ice showers at the beginning of the climb, and higher on the mountain we had strong wind. We could not see the crater! Once down at the Cotopaxi refuge the mountain was absolutely clear-typical....




Posted Jan 11, 2003 2:39 pm

philtowerRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 30 September 2002  Sucess!
Hiked to Cotopaxi in a couple of days after acclimatisation climb of Iliniza Norte, going through El Boliche entrance to national park from El Chaupi.

Left Jose Rivas refuge at 1am and reached summit at 5.30am, so hung around there for 30 minutes to get pictures of sunrise. Back at refuge at 8am. The only difficulties I found were making sure you pick the right entry point to the glacier to get the path to the top (follow a guided party if unsure - I reccied this the day before the climb) and the last crevasse before the summit. This crevasse used to have a metal bridge, but there is now a narrow snow bridge immediately followed by a short steep pitch where care is needed (especially on the descent).

Fantastic views from the top (and indeed on the way up, due to clear starry night with half moon).
Posted Oct 1, 2002 1:41 pm

chiRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 1 August 2002  Sucess!


Nice climb, no real technical difficulties. beware of numerous crevasses. approx. Alpine PD+

Acclimatise well and wait for the weather. The sound of the wind inside the hut can be demoralising but it's worth going up to the top the scree and reassess conditions.
Posted Sep 16, 2002 8:04 am

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